Interview with Viktor Varszegi, Owner and Winemaker of Varszegi Winery

If you live near Budapest or are visiting the Hungarian capital for a holiday and happen to be a wine lover, there is a place that surprisingly few people talk about despite being only thirty minutes away from the city centre.

Hidden beneath the streets of Budafok lies a network of limestone cellars stretching for nearly one hundred kilometres, a historic legacy that continues to play an important role in Hungarian winemaking today.

Among the producers working in these underground cellars is Viktor Varszegi, owner and winemaker of Varszegi Winery.

Like many winemakers based in Budafok, Viktor does not cultivate vineyards in the district itself. Instead, his vineyards are located on the southern shores of Lake Balaton, where he grows his grapes before bringing them to Budafok for vinification and ageing.

Recently, Viktor expanded his range with two traditional method sparkling wines, a Brut and a Rosé, both of which I had the pleasure of tasting during my visit.

After a quick interview, one thing became immediately clear: Viktor is not only incredibly kind, but also refreshingly straightforward in his philosophy. There is no unnecessary complication in either his answers or his wines, only a clear vision and a genuine passion for sparkling wine.

Could you tell us a little about yourself and how your journey into the world of wine began?

As a child, I spent a great deal of time with my grandfather, who made wine as a hobby. That is when I first fell in love with the profession.

Your vineyards are located in the beautiful landscape of the southern shore of Lake Balaton. What characteristics does this region provide to your sparkling wines that make them truly unique?

Our vineyards are planted on loess soils with a high limestone content, which provide our sparkling wines with a firm acidic backbone and excellent ageing potential.

What motivated you to start producing sparkling wine?

Quite simply, I really love sparkling wine.

For both your white and rosé sparkling wines, you use Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. What is behind this classic varietal choice?

Tradition, I believe. In sparkling wine production there is not always a need for innovation. Proven grape varieties and proven technology work exceptionally well.

Based on your experience, how do Hungarian consumers relate to sparkling wine? What are the key factors you focus on to make it more attractive and marketable?

Hungary is still in its infancy when it comes to sparkling wine consumption, but intense fruit character and the right dosage are the keys to winning over Hungarian consumers.

When you are not tasting your own wines, which sparkling wine do you most enjoy drinking?

I taste a great number of wines, so I could not really choose a single favourite. It mostly depends on my mood at the time.

As a young winemaker, what message would you give to young people who would like to get closer to the world of wine?

They should not be afraid to taste as much as possible. Tasting is the foundation of everything.

The Tasting

Viktor Wieland Brut Classic

The first vintage of Viktor Varszegi’s traditional method sparkling wine is clean, precise and razor-sharp. It offers a fine mousse, citrus-driven aromatics and that crisp, palate-cleansing finish that you always want at the beginning of a tasting.

Made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the nose finds balance between fresh citrus aromas, white-fleshed fruits and delicate toasty notes. On the palate, grapefruit and lime are joined by almond, butter and biscuit nuances.

Its soft mousse, tiny bubbles and refined acidity give the wine genuine elegance.

Fresh, sophisticated and remarkably persistent, this is a sparkling wine that immediately invites another sip.

Viktor Wieland Rosé Brut

For this new Rosé sparkling wine, Viktor uses grapes harvested from newly planted vineyards. Produced using the traditional method, the blend is based predominantly on Pinot Noir, complemented by Chardonnay.

Its colour is a delicate pale pink with subtle bright reflections. Fresh raspberry and wild strawberry dominate both the nose and the palate, while the time spent ageing on the lees contributes toasty and creamy notes that add depth and refinement.

Lively acidity, fine bubbles and a creamy texture define the wine, making it an elegant rosé sparkling wine that manages to be both playful and classic at the same time.

Every sip offers a perfect meeting point between harmony and freshness.

Viktor and the future

Meeting young winemakers like Viktor Varszegi is always refreshing. In a world where marketing narratives often become more important than the wine itself, his approach feels remarkably honest and direct.

He loves sparkling wine, wanted to make sparkling wine, and set out to produce bottles that people genuinely enjoy drinking. Sometimes the simplest motivations are also the best ones.

His Brut and Rosé already show impressive precision and balance, but perhaps even more importantly, they reflect the personality of the person behind them: approachable, focused and quietly ambitious.

If these first sparkling wines are any indication of what is still to come from Varszegi Winery, Viktor is certainly a producer worth keeping an eye on in the years ahead.

 

Image credit belongs to Marco Barbieri. Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use it.