Sparkling wines of Israel

Conversing about sparkling wine production should be in the context of general specifics of Israeli winemaking, which, in turn, is a reflection of the general character of the country, its advantages and limitations. Sometimes contradictory pairs are formed, such as a combination of well-known Israeli pragmatism with the imagination inherent in Israelis, which is quite a far cry from pragmatism.

In Israel of course, they will tell you that this country is one of the birthplaces of winemaking, wine was made here from antiquity – however, the country’s current winemaking began a century and a half ago, exactly when a practical need for it arose. Or rather, a bouquet of practical needs: from the need to keep colonists occupied to the need for at least some kind of export product.

Almost all wine made in Israel is kosher, that is, it meets the religious requirements of Judaism. This is not important for all buyers, but supermarkets declare a wide coverage and any buyer taking a bottle from the shelf (like any other product), may not read the label – the product is obviously kosher. What does this mean? The fact that during the production of wine we had to comply with a number of restrictions. Winemakers overcome them with varying degrees of grace – but it is also clear that this only leads to an increase in the cost of wine.

We understand that it is difficult for Israeli wine to be both decent and cheap, and in relation to sparkling wines, there is no particular point in making acratophoric sparkling wine here although they do make it. Competition on the shelves will be guaranteed to be lost to cheap products from Italy or Catalonia. According to Vadim Fruman, sommelier and wine & spirit expert, large Israeli wine producers turned to sparkling wine about 30-40 years ago, and about 15-20 years ago it was the turn of small producers, of which there are hundreds in Israel.

Manufacturers in this segment are unlikely to claim control over the market, but rather demonstrate their capabilities. In general, the sparkling wine market in the country is small in itself. The religious classes prefer still red wines, which they drink while performing the required blessings. More secular people do not refuse sparkling wine, accompanying them on holidays: weddings, birthdays, New Year (those who celebrate the European New Year, but not all) and also ‘Valentine’s Day’ (‘Tu-be-Av’), which falls usually in the summer.

Sparkling wine also serves as an aperitif, and as a pairing, Israelis according to Fruman prefer chilled fruits over cheeses or seafood (the latter, moreover, are prohibited by kashrut). “Attention is paid, first of all, to seasonal fruits,” says Vadim, “On New Year’s Eve, it’s strawberry season in Israel, and strawberries in different forms go well with sparkling wine. For example, I like to offer salmon tartare with avocado and strawberries.” However, Israel does not remain aloof from the current trend and the demand for wine with bubbles (locals collectively call it ‘kava’), including peanuts, which are growing today.

But let’s return to the manufacturers. First of all, we note that for sparkling wine the most traditional varieties are usually used – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. However, Israel does not have its own autochthons, although they were looking for it with all their might – this relates to the question of the continuous tradition of winemaking since the Bronze Age.

The second point, which ultimately affects both the cost and the volume of production: is the lack of significant cellars for aging sparkling wine in bottles. Nothing comparable to the many kilometers of labyrinths that traditional European sparkling wine producers buried tens of meters deep. In rare cases, some natural cavities are used, but in general, you have to create the correct temperature conditions for holding (read: cooling) yourself, and at your own expense.

It is understood that the pioneer in the production of sparkling wine was Carmel Mizrahi in the largest winery in the country. The winery was founded by Rothschild (who is Chateau Lafite) back in the 19th century – she was the first-born of Israeli industrial winemaking and by the way, she was and is the happy owner of two good basements and natural cavities.

Attempts to produce sparkling wine there have been made for a long time, but there was no demand. In the 70s, sparkling President made from Colombard grapes was brought to the market – with a plastic cork, adding carbonic acid and the inscription ‘traditional method’ on the label, which was not true. One way or another, this wine became the flagship of Israeli sparkling wines for a long time and was even exported.

Let’s mention some other manufacturers. Vadim Fruman highlighted the sparkling wine of the large Golan Heights Winery company – the Yarden brand. This ultra-technological, New World-style winery was the first to create world-class Israeli sparkling wine, as evidenced by victories in competitions. The vineyards are located exactly where the name indicates. That is, these are the highest vineyards in Israel. This company, along with premium lines, also produces medium ones, the cost of which on the shelf is about $40 – $70, that is, they can compete with the basic wines of some Champagne wineries.

Another winery is – PELTER – grapes from approximately the same region, from the slope of Mount Hermon. Wine in an original triangular bottle is made in both kosher and non-kosher versions! In addition to those listed,

Fruman recommends paying attention to the young (founded in 2017) ’boutique’ winery. Ramat Raziel – its vineyards near Jerusalem, on the slopes of the Judean Mountains.

Lastly, an example of what we at the beginning called ‘Israeli fantasy’: sparkling wine BUBBLEPOM from Rimon Winery. Made without grapes at all! From what? From pomegranate. Using classical technology, with secondary fermentation in the bottle – limited edition and every few years; they simply saturate pomegranate wine with carbon dioxide – on the shelf for the same $40.