Pelle Winery: The Keepers of Tokaj’s Bubbles

Nestled in Hungary’s prestigious Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region, Pelle Pince (Hungarian for Winery or more specifically Cellar) is a boutique, family-run winery making waves with its elegant sparkling wines. Since its inception in 2007, the winery has been committed to authenticity. While the Tokaj region is globally renowned for its sweet Tokaji Aszú wines, László and his team are charting a different course, applying their deep winemaking expertise to craft refined, terroir-driven sparkling wines. With meticulous attention to detail and a dedication to producing high-quality bubbles, this cellar is redefining what Tokaj wines can offer.

During my visit, I had the pleasure of sitting down with Mr. Pelle and his winemaker. This was more than just a tasting; it was a joyful experience. If László hadn’t been a winery owner, he could easily have been an entertainer—I felt as though I was visiting an old friend for a few glasses. While he is passionate about discussing his wines with great charm, they truly speak for themselves.

A Focus on Sparkling Wine

Though Pelle produces still wines, it has carved out a niche in sparkling wine production, a relatively new but rapidly growing trend in Tokaj. The winery focuses on creating wines from local grape varieties like Furmint and Hárslevelű, which thrive in the region’s volcanic soils. Their strength lies not only in their identity but also in their commitment to organic grapes and hand harvesting across their 5 hectares. Location is paramount; most of their sparkling vineyards are situated in the Grand Cru areas of Szent Tamás, Betsek, and Király. Keeping up with modern trends, they also produce an easy-drinking Gyöngyözőbor and a funky Pet-Nat alongside their traditional offerings.

Limited Production, High Craftsmanship

Pelle Pince operates on a small scale, producing limited quantities of each sparkling wine. This small-batch approach allows them to maintain complete control over the winemaking process, from vineyard management to final bottling. Every aspect of production is carefully monitored to ensure that only the highest quality wines bear the Pelle Pince label. While modest in size, Pelle strives for excellence, continuously seeking improvement, especially when it comes to machinery.

The first stop on the cellar tour was the warehouse, which included the press house, the steel tanks room, and the bottling quarters. As a proud Italian, it was a pleasure to see Italian bottling machines utilized so effectively in Tokaj. The Barida machines ensure that bottles are kept safe and sound, a fact that László appreciates fully.

But the jewel of the winery is the German Willmes press—an avant-garde tool that, unlike regular presses, gently squeezes the fruit from the outside walls inward. It’s worth mentioning that the “gently” part is thanks to Máté, who carefully oversees the process, even pressing whole bunches.

The winery recently had the torch passed from one winemaker to another. Since 2022, the Pelle enterprise has been energized by the youthful spirit of Máté Nagy, ushering in a new era with a fresh approach. I was fortunate enough to taste wines from both winemakers, capturing the full spectrum of this beautiful winery’s artistry.

The second part of the visit took us to the expansive cellar where all the sparkling wines are stored. When I say “all,” I mean it—László not only stores his own wines there but also bottles from producers across the region. Depending on the vintage, over 60,000 bottles are housed in the 150-meter-long storage area. This year alone, 25,000 bottles will undergo secondary fermentation, including about 2,000 of Pelle’s own wines. It’s a true treasure trove, and I can confidently say that László holds the keys to all the bubbles in Tokaj. This also serves as a testament to the family’s legacy and recognition among their peers.

A collaborative effort, the final say belongs to the Lady of the House, Marianna Pelle. László’s wines are crafted with her palate in mind—she has a particular fondness for Furmint, though other grapes shine through in blends or as single varietals. I was lucky enough to taste the current vintages on the market, as well as some fresh bottles yet to be released.

Pét-Nat 2022

This is Máté’s inaugural venture into the Ancestral Method, and I had the privilege of tasting this unique creation, with only 100 bottles crafted for this “experimental vintage.” The Pelle Pét-Nat showcases 100% Furmint, and the grape’s character shines brightly with its vibrant freshness and alluring notes of citrus and stone fruits.

There’s a delightful zing that dances on the palate, complemented by soft, effervescent bubbles and a seductive creaminess that lends the wine a luxurious, full-bodied sensation. Despite its richness, enhanced by the sediments, the finish remains refreshingly mineral and clean. While the sediments might seem a touch pronounced, they only add to the wine’s charm. As Máté’s first attempt, this is an exciting start, and I eagerly await the next vintage—an enticing glimpse into the future.

The New One.

“Frizzi” 2023

“Frizzi,” as the name suggests, is the winery’s Frizzante wine. There’s no traditional method here—just simple added CO2. Made from Hárslevelű, a grape known for its floral and herbaceous characteristics, it’s given a twist with an additional 5% of Sargamuskotaly, adding aromatic notes of honeysuckle, lime blossom, and a hint of herbs. On the palate, it remains fresh and lively, with gentle, integrated bubbles. This entry-level wine is easy to drink, fun, and enjoyable—perfect for those who appreciate more aromatic profiles in their sparkling wines.

The Funny One.

Pelle Brut Nature 2019

This Brut Nature Furmint offers a sharp, linear profile with extremely low residual sugar (1.5 g/l). The volcanic soil shines through, revealing distinct flinty and stony notes that complement fresh citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Ageing in tanks imparts a clean profile, allowing the fruit to take center stage, reminiscent of a high-end

Prosecco, an Hungarian “Cartizze.” The razor-sharp acidity is balanced by delicate bubbles and a long, mineral finish.

The Crisp One.

Pelle Brut Nature 2020

The new vintage of Brut Nature, soon to be released, differs from its predecessor due to Mate’s decision to adjust the dosage to 2.5 g/l. Still classified as Brut Nature, it tends to have a slightly sweeter profile. The fruit flavors are riper, featuring red apples, nectarines, and a subtle hint of white honey. Despite being a year younger, the wine’s acidity remains vibrant, and the minerality from the Ujhegy and Sarkad vineyards is prominent. The bubbles maintain their finesse, and the persistent finish carries sweet notes, concluding a remarkable sip. The Richer One.

Pelle Brut Nature Király 2020

The crown jewel of the winery’s sparkling selection, this wine is produced from Furmint sourced from the esteemed Király Hill vineyard, with only about 700 bottles made. Pelle owns half a hectare there, and the grapes are reserved exclusively for their single vineyard releases—sparkling, still, and even sweet. This wine delivers a clean, precise expression of the grape, with aromas of green apple, lemon zest, and white flowers, supported by bright acidity and a refreshing mineral backbone. It is fermented and subsequently aged in barrels, adding richness, with hints of brioche and almond rounding out the palate. With extended lees ageing of 36 months in the bottle, it gains even more body and structure, standing tall among internationally renowned names. I’m curious to see how it develops over the next five years.
The Wonder.

In a region historically known for its sweet wines, Pelle Pince is demonstrating that Tokaj can also excel at producing some of the finest sparkling wines in Hungary.

They are beginning to make a name for themselves both locally and on the international wine scene. Thank you for the amazing experience, László Pelle, and for introducing me to your wonderful Teddy Bears—real stars of the winery!

Images belong to Marco Barbieri. Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use them.