Bodegas Colet top class sparkling wine from DO Penedés

It’s time for some fresh, invigorating Spanish Sparkling Wine – notice, I don’t say Cava, because it’s not Cava, but it’s top class fizz, I can assure you!

It is from Cataluña, but it’s DO Penedés (or Clàssic Penedés, to give this sparkling wine its correct name) not DO Cava. I’m extremely impressed and recommend the wines of Bodegas Colet, without reservation!

Clàssic Penedés Sparkling Wine is made by the traditional method (the same way Champagne is made, and Cava), but there are differences, differences which make a quality impact of the resulting wine. There are several different rules that apply to making Sparkling wines in Penedés as opposed to under the DO Cava.

Three stand out: 1) the wine must be made from organically grown grapes; 2) the wine must be left En Rima, with its lees after the secondary fermentation in bottle has ceased, for a minimum of 15 months (the minimum for Cava is just 9 months); 3) the date of disgorgement (when the ice-plug containing the dead lees is expelled from the bottle) must be displayed on the label.

It’s clear from these rules, and others, that Clàssic Penedés is going to be about quality – and this was certainly confirmed by the four samples that Bodegas Colet sent me to taste!

I just had to taste the ‘A Priori Brut’, first – such a combination of exciting flavoursome and aromatic grapes varieties: Macabeo, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Moscatel!

In fact at 18 months, this wine has had longer than the minimum 15 months required – it’s therefore quite full in the mouth, with a greater depth. However the most notable attribute that this wine has, as you might expect, given the above, is the super perfume of the wine! Exotic and citrus fruit with understated apple/cider nuances dance around typical sparkling wine patisserie aromas. A fantastic aperitif!

‘Tradicional Extra Brut’ (between Brut Nature and Brut in dryness) has enjoyed 30 months en Rima – it’s full in the mouth and again there are tempting aromas as the bottle is poured.

It’s made with the three traditional Cava grape varieties: Xarel.lo, Macabeo and Parellada. This is a wine with depth, a wine that will be super as an aperitif, of course, but its relative complexity caused by its long crianza make it a sparkling wine that will be excellent with food, and not just amuse bouches. Patisserie notes with a very slight, attractive cider aroma. Dry, with a long finish.

‘Grand Cuvée Extra Brut’ has 70% Chardonnay in the blend, joining Macabeo and Xarel.lo. It’s an elegant sparkling wine with super aromas of blanched almonds, maybe a little under-ripe banana and green apple. But it’s on the palate where this perfectly rounded wine really excels! It fills the mouth with its depth and complexity whilst managing also to retain its elegance and fresh acidity. There’s a long finish – whilst you reach for the glass again, to see if it really is as good as you first thought. It is!

Finally, perhaps the flagship wine of the portfolio – the ‘Assemblage Extra Brut’. This very lightly rosé coloured wine is the result of the gentle pressing of the black grape Pinot Noir, which makes up 55% of the blend. The rest is made up by Chardonnay, coming from one specific, terroir favoured vineyard.

Whilst not wanting to appear a wannabe Champagne one cannot avoid the similarities. It’s a super, full and elegant wine that looks so appealing in the glass. On the nose there are faint strawberry elements mixing with aromas of the pasteleria as you pass its open door first thing in the morning. Elegant, yes, but that doesn’t mean delicate. Its 30 months en rima have given it structure, some power, a mouth-filling presence and a lovely slightly creamy finish.

So – when you see Colet Sparkling wines, don’t hesitate, buy! You won’t be disappointed!

Written by Colin Harkness

www.colinharknessonwine.com