Bubbles from Balaton: The Perfect Summer Wine

Summer is on its way and what better spot to sip a beautifully chilled glass of bubbles?

Well, here in Hungary, Lake Balaton is the place to be!

…let’s start with some Geography

At 591 square kilometres, it is the largest freshwater lake in Central Europe.

The Balaton wine region is one of the 6 PGI of the country and perhaps the most complex

There are 6 more wine districts out of the country’s 22.

Despite sharing common traits in climate and wine production, each area boasts a unique identity and character. All around Lake Balaton are territories particularly well-suited for vineyards. It provides ample reflected sunlight, appropriate humidity, and cooler summer temperatures, creating a unique climate. Lake Balaton is encircled by hills, both in the north and south, shielding it from cold winds. This region is geologically diverse, featuring extinct volcanoes, basalt, limestone debris, loess, brown and red forest soil, dolomite, and Pannonian sand.

Out of the 6 districts, 2 of them, unfortunately, either have no wineries on the lake’s shores or do not produce any sparkling wine: Somló and Zala.

The other 4 are either on the coastline or facing the Lake from visually breathtaking hills:

Balatonboglár, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Badacsony and the Balaton Highlands.

…and a bit of History

Viticulture around the lake started around the 100s, thriving in the Roman Empire and then in the various Monasteries in the Middle Ages.

During the Turkish occupation, wine production persisted and even supported resistance efforts.

The 19th century marked a golden age for Balaton as wines were widely exported across the monarchy.

Vines were mainly cultivated on the northern shore. However, when the phylloxera devastated the area, winemakers turned to the sandy soils of the southern coast, where the pest struggled to thrive. This shift inadvertently boosted wine production in the South.

The 20th century brought significant changes, especially during the Communist era when, due to travel restrictions, Balaton became a summer hub for the proletariat. Vineyards were converted for large-scale production by cooperatives, leaving the prime hillside sites neglected and converted into holiday homes.

Post-1990s political changes led to further development and a reduction in vineyard areas.

As of now, Balaton, along with the whole country, is experiencing a wonderful renaissance, with new wineries sprouting everywhere and quality rising to wonderful standards.

And getting back to my premise: a glass of bubbly with a wonderful view of the Lake.

I will guide you through the latter four regions, bringing a bottle of Sparkles with each one.

Balatonboglár

The only region situated on the southern shores of Balaton, it is 50km long and, in some areas, 25km wide.

The climate is mild, but in summer, it can be extremely hot.

Most of the vineyards are planted on slopes facing hillsides at 300m ASL, where there are long hours of sunshine and precipitation between 600 and 800mm per year.

The region’s terroir is predominantly composed of clay and sandy sediments deposited by the ancient Pannonian Sea, later covered with loess. These layers are now overlain by loam soils, creating ideal conditions for viticulture.

Currently, 3,420 hectares are under vine.

Légli winery

Founded in 1989 by Otto Légli, the winery started with a 0,5-hectare inheritance from his parents.

Thanks to his father, who was a horticulturist and a viticulturist, it wasn’t hard for Otto to find his way into winemaking.

He started planting Olaszrizling, Rainaj Rizling, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Hárslevelű, Zenit, and, only some years later, Chardonnay. At the turn of the century, he also started planting red grapes such as Merlot and Pinot Noir.

Thanks to the great quality of his wines already in the 90’s he caught the attention of Bortársaság, one of the biggest wine shop chains in the country, becoming one of their first partners.

By the turn of the century, the number of vineyards owned by Légli had increased significantly, and now the winery has around 33 hectares, producing roughly 150000 per year

The Wine

This exceptional blend of Rhine Riesling, Furmint, Chardonnay, and Zenit spent 20 months on the lees, showcasing the meticulous craftsmanship of traditional method sparkling wine. Each step of the production process occurs entirely within the cellar, allowing for continuous monitoring and ensuring only small batches are freshly disgorged. Fermented and aged in the bottle, this wine greets the eye with a clear, bright lemon colour. Its vibrant fruitiness features dominant grapefruit and citrus aromas, complemented by subtle hints of flowers and green apple. On the palate, ripe white fruits and citrus take centre stage, followed by refined, elegant bubbles and delicate brioche notes that linger on the finish. With a refreshing elegance, great structure, and an alcohol content of 12.5%, this wine epitomizes a broader, more flavourful champagne-style sparkling wine.

Balatonfüred-Csopak

This region covers almost half of the northern shore of the Lake.

The climate is continental, characterized by relatively hot but brief summers. The large surface area of the lake acts like a mirror, reflecting sunlight and creating a

Mediterranean microclimate in the whole area.

The terroir features a diverse geological composition, encompassing Phyllite slate, Permian red sandstone, Triassic limestone, dolomite, basalt, basalt tuff, rendzina, and forest soils.

Currently, 1,822 hectares are under vine.

Feind Winery

Founded by Lajos Feind in 1995, when he bought 14 hectares of grapes on the shores of Lake Balaton, this is where his viticulture started and later grew further towards a winery, which has expanded into 130 hectares in 20 years to become our vineyards. All of the plantations belong to the Balatonfüred-Csopak wine region of

Hungary and are divided into many areas, with the biggest being the Old Hill in Balatonfőkajár. In 2019, Lajos entrusted the management of the winery to his son Zoltán Feind and managing director István Bacskai. With the increasing number of owned vineyards, the need for a better and bigger space became a necessity.

Zoltán then built a fully equipped 2000 m2 winery on the border of Balatonfőkajár. Since then, everything from grape processing to presses to the bottling plant has been in one place. Thanks to this massive improvement, Feid is now producing 550,000 bottles per year, including white, rosé, reds, and the latest wonderful addition of sparkling wine.

The wine

This sparkling wine, made from Zenith using the Charmat process, presents a slightly greener-cooler character, exuding sophistication. In the glass, it shines with a bright yellow hue, accompanied by fine bubbles and numerous small pearls. The wine boasts a pleasant acid structure balanced by a touch of residual sugar. Its complex aroma and taste reveal fruity notes dominated by green apple and pear, enhanced by green herbs, lemongrass, and a hint of toastiness, finishing with a delicate sweet note of that cotton candy you can find in the county fairs.

On the palate, the fruit flavours mature; the pear remains present while the apple transforms into a riper, red variety. The toastiness reappears, reminiscent of freshly baked toasted bread, complemented by a sweet sensation with a hint of caramel. This sparkling wine leaves a lasting impression with its remarkable persistence.

With an alcohol content of 11.5%, it is a complex, rich, yet refreshingly enjoyable wine.

Badacsony

One of the country’s most iconic regions is located in the Tapolca Basin, naturally in the northern part of the Lake.

It is home to the volcanic butte of Badacsony Hill, which dominates the whole perimeter at 438 meters high.

Apart from the highest promontory, the region is famous for having many other degraded volcanoes all around.

As we can well deduce, Badacsony’s soil is permanently basalt, overlain with sand and clay from the Pannonian Sea. In some areas, brown forest, loess mixed with clay and sand, and loam are also possible.

Badacsony has a continental climate with sub-Mediterranean characteristics. However, the microclimate is worth mentioning from a winemaker’s standpoint.

Firstly, the south-facing slopes benefit from a geographical position that shields them from the north wind, coupled with additional solar radiation reflected by Lake Balaton.

Here, the „Power of the Sun” has a minimal effect, diffusing its radiations in all directions.

The real feat of our big star is influencing the thermal properties of Lake Balaton’s water mass. The heat from the water can mitigate the impact of sudden cold air for several hours, and during hot summer nights, it provides the necessary aeration for overheated vines. This helps prevent the premature loss of acidity, which is vital for wine quality. Additionally, the water mass increases air humidity.

Currently, 1,187 hectares are under vine.

Gilvesy winery

Canadian-born Robert Gilvesy, raised on a tobacco farm, was steeped in Hungarian culture by his parents and grandparents. At 15, a family trip to Hungary planted seeds of curiosity, though he never imagined calling it home. His path led him to Paris until the Berlin Wall fell, prompting his move to Hungary. Visiting Mount

Saint George (Szent György-hegy) for the first time, he was captivated by its unique and invaluable character. This led to his return, not just as a visitor, but as a vintner, acquiring the expertise and vineyards needed to launch Gilvesy Winery.

The winery’s roots date back to around 1680 when the Lengyel family built the original cellar, which was later incorporated into the Esterházy estate (one of the most important noble Hungarian families).

In 2012, renovation and modification were completed just in time for the harvest. The estate now boasts a modern complex and spans approximately 13 hectares of vineyards. It produces 100,000 bottles of wine annually and serves as the family’s residence.

Nestled among ancient volcanoes, the region’s soil is a blend of eroded basalt, tuff, and Pannon loess, sand, or clay.

Since 2014, all Gilvesy vineyards have adhered to organic farming principles.

Robert’s profound respect for nature and the land manifests in his commitment to organic practices, which ensure the vitality of the soil and vines. In the winery, he embraces natural processes and local resources, like Hungarian oak barrels, to champion and preserve the Balaton region’s heritage.

The Wine

This Traditional Method sparkling wine is made from 100% Furmint grapes, grown on Mount St. George (Szent György-hegy). The grapes are organically cultivated on the volcanic basalt/tufa and calcareous dolomite-rich soil of the Váradi vineyard. After spontaneous fermentation, the base wine was aged in the bottle for 40 months, followed by a second fermentation at Garamvári in Budapest.

Brut nature with zero dosage, this wine from the exceptional 2019 vintage stands out for its elegance. Its aroma recalls green apple and pear, with a refreshing zestiness from fresh lemon and lime zest. On the palate, delicate bubbles and a silky mouthfeel complement the yeasty notes. The fresh fruit flavours reappear, enhanced by a wonderful minerality and a hint of saltiness.

The finish is well-persistent and clean, making for a light (11.5%) and refreshing sparkling wine. Sharp, tight acids contribute to its youthful character, showcasing the potential of the Furmint grape, especially when grown in volcanic soil.

Balaton Highlands

The „final part” of the northern shore stretches from the western side of the lake until „Füred-Csopak” is briefly interrupted by Badacsony.

The soil is chalky, with traces of volcanic soil mixed with brown forest soil at 100 to 200 metres above sea level. The Kál basin, one of the region’s most recognised areas, also has dolomite, limestone, and marl mixed with volcanic debris.

The climate is sub-mediterranean with pleasant summers and early autumns.

Currently, 653 hectares are under vine.

Pállfy winery

Gyula Pálffy hails from Köveskál, a place where his family’s connection to the land runs deep, rooted in centuries of viticulture and winemaking. In 1790, the residents of Köveskál (including the Pálffy family) were granted nobility status due to their exemplary wines. To this day, the Pálffys continue to work and live there.

Gyula’s journey in winemaking has evolved from modern, technology-driven methods to embracing natural, spontaneous fermentation and traditional techniques.

He feels he has reached a point where he only needs to fine-tune his methods and deepen his understanding of the local terroir. His two sons, both graduates in viticulture, are now part of this endeavour.

The Pálffy Winery’s first bottles were produced in 1998 from vines cultivated on ancestral lands. Expansion and new plantings began in 2002. By 2007, the winery started shifting towards ecological, organic farming, pioneering the abandonment of herbicides and absorbents, relying instead on sulfur and copper for plant protection. In 2013, they advanced further by planting biodynamically managed parcels.

Harvesting at Pálffy Winery involves meticulous sprout and bunch selection to ensure the best yield. The goal is to capture the essence of Köveskál’s unique soils—volcanic basalt and rhyolite tuff, Pannonian limestone, and red sandstone—by concentrating their strength and minerality into small, select clusters. This commitment to organic and biodynamic principles extends into the cellar, where all wines undergo spontaneous fermentation.

The winery spans 18 hectares and produces approximately 45,000 bottles annually.

The Wine

This sparkling wonder from the super-mineral-rich Kali basin, crafted using the traditional method, is an exquisite example of winemaking mastery. Made purely from Pinot Noir, the grapes were harvested in early mid-August to capture the ideal balance of acidity, alcohol, and sugar content. The wine undergoes spontaneous fermentation, with the base sparkling wine produced in the renowned Budafok region (where most of the Sparkling wines are developed all over the country). After resting and maturing in the bottle for an impressive 32 months, it emerges as a beautifully refined sparkling wine.

The glass captivates with a pale salmon colour accented by delicate pink hues. The nose is a vibrant bouquet of lively spring blossoms, fresh strawberries, and crisp new-season apples, inviting you to take the first sip. On the palate, it unfolds a symphony of ripe, fruity flavours, including pink apple, red berries, and a zest of orange and lemon peel, all interwoven with subtle oatmeal nuances. The fine bubbles and refreshing acidity enhance its creamy, textural, and sharp character.

With an alcohol content of 11.5%, this sparkling wine is a harmonious blend of good minerality and perfect balance. It stands out as one of the finest rosé bubbles I’ve ever tasted, offering an elegant complexity that is dangerously easy to drink

I hope I made you thirsty for Hungaruan Bubbles and want to visit this wonderful lake!

Cheers!