Candover Brook Panel Discussion

“Our commitment to the environment, the unique chalk stream habitat and our community is deeply reflected in the distinctive elegance of our award-winning wines” Mark Sainsbury

On Tuesday 24th September 2024, Mark Sainsbury welcomed members of the UK wine press to a panel discussion on the story behind his award-winning sparkling wines, Candover Brook and the regenerative principles that inform him and his brother’s approach to viticulture and their farm that surrounds the vineyard.

The panel was made up of Mark Sainsbury (Co-founder with his brother Julian), Samuel Philippot (Vineyard manager) and Craig Livingstone (Director of Farming) and was followed by a tasting of the award-winning Brut NV (2018 bottling), Rosé NV (2018 bottling) as well as a special preview of the 2019 Brut. Delicious tapas were served by Mark’s friend and his former partner, Moro co-founder, Samuel Clark.

They discussed the history of how Lord John Sainsbury, Mark’s father, was inspired by winemaker and friend, Hervé Jestin who, through this friendship became Candover Brook’s consultant winemaker. Hervé is one the world’s most respected sparkling winemakers, known for his relentless focus on quality and innovation, his refined wines and non-interventionist approach.

These principles are at the heart of how Candover Brook works and inspire the regenerative approach of the entire estate. Mark, “feels a deep sense of responsibility to the communities and environment around us” however making very clear, “these principles are not pursued at the expense of profit, this isn’t a hobby, it’s a business” and that they expect to “make more money by following regenerative principles and getting out of the way of nature”. The way in which they nurture the soil is paramount , and they continue to experiment and monitor a variety of regenerative approaches with varying degrees of success from cover crops to sheep fleeces as weed suppressants”, “long term benefits can’t be put into a P&L but soil quality is key” said Craig Livingstone. This is backed up by Samuel Philippot, “balance in the soil is essential. If the vines have too much vigour the fruit will be fragile, some ground-cover competition is a good thing”. They are willing to give it all time which is essential to get the best out of the land. “We are at the beginning of a long journey where the aim is not to grow in size but to get better and better at everything we do step by step” said Mark, adding “as well as this incremental improvement, we hope we can inspire other winemakers to follow our example and educate our customers as to the importance of soil health and the regen approach.”

Nestled within the 2,000-acre Preston Farm in Hampshire’s Candover Valley, the Candover Brook vineyard epitomises the conservation-driven ethos of Mark and Julian Sainsbury. Lord Sainsbury’s vision and deep-held principles have been realised in the vineyards and farmland of their Hampshire estate however they are not new to sustainability. The brothers champion regenerative farming practices throughout their two Hampshire estates; sequestering soil carbon, enhancing biodiversity, and restoring ancient woodlands. Both estates are carbon neutral and LEAF certified. The chalk stream that runs through the valley, Candover Brook, is home to the rare English white-clawed crayfish, both of which are celebrated in the design of the wine’s label. Candover Brook has partnered with the Hampshire and Isle of White Wildlife Trust and support their conservation work protecting the English Crayfish in donating 50p for every bottle sold online and in Hampshire.

They are committed to making the best wine in the most responsible way. Like the regenerative farm that surrounds it, they care deeply about their place in the community, the sensitivity of the local chalk stream habitats and their legacy for future generations.

Candover Brook’s co-owner Mark Sainsbury had a 25 year career as a restaurateur and hotelier, opening Moro, Bistrot Bruno Loubet and Grainstore restaurants and the Zetter Hotel and Townhouses. He co-founded the Sustainable Restaurant Association in 2008 and with his brother Julian has spent the last 30 years running their foundations both dedicated to issues including, climate change, responsible investing and sustainable food systems.