Etyek Wine Region In Hungary: Refreshingly Sparkling!

Tokaj, Balaton and maybe also Villány…. wine regions that you probably know from the wine country of Hungary. But Etyek? Does this ring a bell? Or maybe a bubble? Etyek is the emerging Hungarian wine region for sparkling wines. And that is just a stone’s throw from the capital Budapest.

During the Hungarian Wine Summit in April 2024, which took place in Budapest, several trips were organized for invited guests to various wine regions. My trip took me to Tokaj, Eger and Etyek-Buda. I’ll tell you about Tokaj and Eger later. I’ll start in Etyek: bubbles are always a good start.

Etyek-Buda

The Etyek-Buda wine region is part of the ‘Upper Pannon’ wine region and is located only about 30 km west of the Hungarian capital Budapest. Located between the two mountains Velence and Buda, the vineyard area covers approximately 1600 hectares, of which 800 hectares are used for making sparkling wine. The fact that this area is very suitable for this is partly due to the cool climate with a constant wind from the north and the calcareous soil covered with brown forest soil that gives the wines good acidity.

The still wines produced here are therefore mainly white and wonderfully fresh. An enormous diversity of grape varieties has been planted, partly due to the settlement of different nationalities in this region over the years. They brought their own wine tradition and planted different grape varieties. You will find the white indigenous grape varieties such as hárslevelü, irsai olivér and juhfark, but also the international chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier. As for the blue grapes, you will not be surprised that, in addition to native grape varieties such as kékfrankos, pinot noir thrives here, in the cool area.

PDO Etyeki Pezsgo

Strict requirements apply to the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), in Hungarian OEM (Oltalom alatt álló Eredetmegjelölés) Etyeki Pezsgö.

Only four grape varieties are allowed:

• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir
• Pinot Blanc
• Pinot Gris

 

• The wine must be made according to the traditional method, so, like champagne, the second fermentation must take place in the bottle
• Two styles are allowed: white and rosé
• The wine must mature ‘sur lie’ for at least 24 months
• The dosage may be a maximum of 12 g/l
• The wine must be tasted and approved by a special tasting panel
• Global description of the style of the wines that fall under the PDO Etyeki Pezsgö:

The base wines, made from grapes grown in Etyek, have a medium intensity on the nose and palate with elegant fruit and decent acidity. The latter guarantees a long maturing potential for the wine. During the mandatory minimum ripening period of 24 months, the primary fruit is accompanied by notes such as nuts, toasted bread and brioche. The fresh mousse becomes a bit creamier, but the nice acidity remains.

Etyeki Pezsgo Growers Association

The ‘Etyeki Pezsgö Growers Association’ had 12 members at the time of my visit (April 2024). This includes big names such as Törley, but most members are small family businesses.

The winemakers not only maintain contact with each other, they also look for other initiatives and collaborations. An intensive study was carried out on the vineyards, the climate, the grape varieties, the winemaking process, etc. In August/September, samples of the grapes are taken to determine the optimal harvest time and in March the basic wines are tasted. There is also a collaboration with Pierre-Yves Bournerias and his team from the ‘Institut Oenologique de Champagne’.

Haraszthy Pinceszet

We are welcomed in the attractive restaurant of one of the members, Haraszthy Pincészet, where a number of Etyeki winemakers have gathered to present their sparkling wines. The association is very active: almost every weekend there is some kind of event. From a ‘Bubbles & Bites’ evening to the much-visited Etyeki Picnics in the vineyard. Winemakers from other Hungarian wine regions also join the latter.

Haraszthy as an event location

While the winemakers are preparing everything, we are shown around the winery by winemaker Dániel Pázmányi and the Argentinian owner Carlos Coelho. The company started at the end of 1999 and extensive renovations took place 8 years ago. Before we enter the winery we marvel at the beautiful terrace with swimming pool. I can imagine that weddings and other parties take place here regularly.

Grape varieties Haraszthy

The most important grape varieties for the Haraszthy winery are chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, but autochthonous grape varieties are also planted. The winemaker emphasizes once again that the cool climate and limestone soil are ideal for these grape varieties and the production of sparkling wines. Merlot, cabernet franc and malbec have also been planted recently. The latter according to the wishes of the Argentinian owner. “Due to climate change, we expect to achieve good results with these grape varieties,” says the winemaker.

Haraszthy, the winery

In the modern, tastefully decorated wine cellar we taste a Sauvignon Blanc from the barrel. Fermentation took place with wild yeasts and partly in oak, partly in stainless steel. Lots of fresh fruit, citrus and tropical fruit. Lots of juice, long finish with lots of citrus here too: lemon, lime, grapefruit. Beautiful.

Etyeki Pezsgö, the presentation

Then it’s time for the presentation. The winemakers take turns introducing themselves and briefly talking about their company and the wines. Each winemaker pours one of his or her wines during the presentation.

1) Törley Pezsgömanufaktúra

As mentioned before, a ‘big boy’. It is the largest producer of sparkling wines in Hungary. Here in Etyek they own no less than 810 hectares. The company was started in 1882 by József Törley, who learned the trade at the Roederer champagne house. It was he who introduced sparkling wine, made according to the traditional method, to Hungary. Törley also produces still wines and sparkling wines using various production methods. The total production is now 30 million bottles per year and 1/3 of this is exported to 30 countries.

The wine we taste is made according to the traditional method, as mandatory for the PDO. The Francois President Brut made from 67% chardonnay and 33% pinot noir. Dosage 4 g/l, matured for three years. It is a wine that is specially produced for the catering industry in Hungary. Fresh, floral nose. Firm, but slightly foamy mousse. Slightly cardboardy, but not disturbing; reminds me more of a good Cava.

2) Szijjártó Elöd Borászat

The second to present his wines is the young winemaker Elöd Szijjártó. He has planted chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc and focuses on sparkling wine. Its production is 30,000 bottles per year. The wine he lets us taste does not (yet) have a label. It is a Brut 2021 of 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir with a dosage of 6 g/l. Fresh, clean nose. Beautiful elegant mousse. Citrus, lime, later a hint of butter and almond, but the fresh citrus fruit remains first. Beautiful glass!

3) Nádas Bormühely

This winemaker started in 2011 and now produces 14,000 bottles per year. The fermentation of the wine we are going to taste took place half in oak and half in stainless steel. He only made 760 bottles of this Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs from 100% chardonnay. It is a prize winner in competitions and therefore sells out very quickly. As a test, he has now also made a blend of chardonnay and pinot gris. About this Brut Nature: fresh, citrus, beautiful! Light mousse, very refreshing. Beautiful glass!

4) Rókusfalvy Birtok

Palkó Rókusfalvy starts by saying that this tasting is very important for them, as winemakers in Etyek. After all, the Etyek PDO is small, young and (still) very unknown. He is up to date with the international company he sees before him. “A good opportunity to introduce ourselves.” Only recently has the family started making sparkling wines in addition to still wines. We taste a Brut 2020 of 60% chardonnay, 20% pinot blanc and 20% grüner veltliner. Dosage 5 g/l. Due to the grüner veltliner in the blend, this wine cannot be called a PDO, “but it is an Etyek”. And a fine wine: tropical fruit in the nose and mouth, also some citrus fruit and a touch of cardboard. The goal is to mature this wine for more than 5 years, so the wines are still in the cellar. I wonder what this will taste like when it’s older!

5) Etyeki Kuria

Etyeki Kúria started in 1996. They now own 45 hectares: 25 hectares here in Etyek and 20 in Sopron. The company already planted Pinot Noir in 2001, so it already has a lot of experience with it. The first sparkling wine was made in 2017 as an experiment, but at Etyeki Kúria it was also discovered that the terroir here is very suitable for sparkling wine. Sparkling wine is now made using different methods. The wine we taste is a non-vintage and made according to the traditional method, is a blend of 50% chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. Dosage 7.1 g/l. 3,000 bottles have been produced, but will grow with the next harvest. Elegant nose. Pear, lime, apple, fresh, again that touch of cardboard. Well made, it will appeal to a wide audience. “Just nice for the people”, as an importer once put it.

6) Hernyák Birtok

Tamás is the son of the winery’s founder. He can explain the fact that sparkling wine has not been made here for very long. “The cool climate and the limestone soil have been there for a long time, but the knowledge was lacking. The new generation offers new opportunities. We can travel and gain knowledge in other places and take that knowledge home.” And he did. He did interns in Bordeaux, Sancerre and Champagne. During the latter, he fell in love with sparkling wines. “When I drove back, the question was not what I wanted to do, but how I could convince my father.” This has been a success because the 5 hectares that the family owns are now completely used for sparkling wine. The wine we taste is a Brut of 34% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Blanc and 33% Pinot Noir. Dosage 8 g/l. Beautiful wine! Clean, fresh, citrus, nice acidity, refreshing mousse.

7) Haraszthy Pincészet

The presentation of the winery where we are currently guests. Winemaker Dániel started with chardonnay in 2015. He wanted to taste the chardonnay as a variety. But fellow tasters have also made another sparkling wine. Like this Öreghegy Brut 2017 of 70% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Dosage 6 g/l. The wine matured in the bottle for 5 years. According to the winemaker, 2017 was a good year, with healthy grapes. According to the information on the presentation, a 2018 would be donated. We are in the winery, so it is opened next door. This is a blend of 80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir with a dosage of 5.5 g/l. Here also fresh fruit, nice acidity, citrus and a touch of almond. Elegant, refreshing mousse.

8) Anonymous Pince

This winemaker also fell in love with sparkling wine abroad. Not in Champagne, however, but during his work at Bellavista in Franciacorta, Italy. He started in 2006. The wine we taste is a Brut Reserve and a non-vintage. “But mainly from the 2017 harvest,” he assures us. It is a blend of 75% chardonnay and 25% pinot noir. Dosage 7 g/l. Maturation 5 years. He produces a total of 30,000 bottles, of which 10,000 are sparkling. Citrus, apple, lime, fresh, also some almond, beautiful elegant mousse. Long fresh finish.

After this presentation, we can also taste other sparkling wines that the winemakers have brought with them, while some delicious local products in the form of charcuterie and cheeses are presented.