Return of the Cava? #CavaMeeting 2023 Barcelona

It remains a question for now, but there is a Star Wars themed recent storyline concerning Cava with Cava – The ‘Rest’ Strikes Back – Return of the Cava being the recent trilogy on show when it comes to this famous sparkling wine from Spain. As I sat alongside 150 other global leading wine thought leaders in Barcelona, we questioned – is it time for the return of Cava?

Cava

Though today in the UK it may infrequently appear on wine lists or be a random addition on the sparkling wine shelves of supermarkets, there was a time that Cava was all the rage and very much a trendy fizz option. Many middle aged and plus consumers will have heard of Cava and undoubtedly tried a bottle or two and know it to be a Spanish sparkling wine, it will have shone as brightly alongside Champagne and Prosecco as a household product name.

Pricing was a concern in more recent years as they slid downwards and though the production method is equal to that of Champagne (traditional method) it did not enjoy such financial rewards and instead rubbed shoulders with more basically and easier produced sparkling wines such as those from Prosecco (DOC) with the tank method production (thanks in no small part to the cheaper grape prices of the regions).

“Distinguishing features of Cava wine is its affordability… ” Faux Sommeliers

The ‘Rest’ Strikes Back

With the UK being a highly attractive export market for all wines, it purchases approximately 1.77 billion bottles annually, activity is very much alive and kicking when it comes to other wines regions / countries wanting a piece of the action. Champagne remains an ever popular region favoured by wine lovers in the UK and unlike any other wine region, the size and history of this wine region’s marketing activities mean that not only is the region Champagne a household name, but so are many of the producers such as Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Bollinger etc.

Prosecco in recent years certainly spotted an opportunity and went for it, the DOC classification leading the drive to claim the spot of a cheap and cheerful, fruity and floral sparkling wine option. The bottle to place in your shopping basket for that weekly fizz fix (Champagne has defined the sparkling wine segment for decades as a luxury product, which for most consumers means something to be saved for a special occasion. Weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, graduations). Though, like any other wine region, qualities and prices vary, Prosecco as a whole is known very much as a cheaper sparkling wine alternative which leaves the superior quality Prosecco, DOCG classification, with a big headache on how to get consumers to spend extra (this is down to the less quality marketing activities over recent years of DOCG to the UK wine industry / consumers).

As other bubbles came to the market, Cava remained quiet on the consumer front with mostly the background work in process to get wineries from the designated grape growing regions to agree and unite under one umbrella of DO Cava (this remains an ongoing project).

“Cava for me in the last couple of years felt like ‘the engine and bodywork were all intact and primed, the driver was poached from the rival team and we were just waiting for someone to find the keys’. The history is there, the quality is there, the diversity is there, the volume is there and the brand is strong… ” Christopher Walkey

 

Return of the Cava

As rumbles of awakening were being heard in the DO Cava camp the expectations for a new marketing drive were building and for many wine professionals, this was a pleasing development. The potential gap in the UK sparkling wine market, the price range between Prosecco and Champagne, is there to be taken and Cava is lining up to grab a piece of the action… the issue is, that they join a wide selection of other sparkling wine regions with the same intentions in mind.

“Prior to my few days at the 2023 #CavaMeeting in Barcelona and taking in the vision of DO Cava to expand their export, I visited both Slovenia and Serbia to discuss their hopes and desires to enter the UK sparkling wine market. Though they have at least equal qualities to that of DO Cava, what they miss is the brand awareness that Cava on a bottle holds over Slovenia / Serbia… It will all boil down to the funding available for this push and the attention to detail on how it will be done. Undoubtedly for all concerned, there should be no time to rest on any laurels!” Christopher Walkey

There is much recent positivity in the DO Cava camp, export sales figures have been rising though the UK shows us a small decline in 2022 with bottles shipped being down 15.19% to 16.89 million. The UK is the fourth biggest export market for DO Cava.

 

Positives for DO Cava

• History
• Quality
• Volume
• Brand
• Styles / Diversity
• Affordability in Production/Sales
• Sustainability Awareness
• Established International Export
• UK loves sparkling wine

 

Negatives for DO Cava

• Low Price Reputation
• Fierce Competition
• Newly Formed (continued disputes?)

 

 

#CavaMeeting 2023 Barcelona

So, the DO Cava drive is on, the keys to the car have been found and now it’s all about competing in the race to capture a sufficient piece of the UK sparkling wine buying market. Can it be done?

Over the two days of the Cava Meeting in Barcelona, much was spoken about the qualities of the wines being produced and the wide and varied styles from sweetness levels to aging potential. Though one certain style was commonly seen during most tastings, a young and fresh acidic fruity style with a hint of petroleum, and a glimpse of more intense umami from ageing alongside smoother options were tasted. Over the two days of the Cava Meeting, I noted down the following wineries for their merits:

Consistency of quality: Alta Alella – From the moment this winery’s wine was tasted, during the dinner the evening before the two day event, an impression was made. Those sitting alongside me all pointed to the Alta Alella label as their preferred amongst several other wine options presented. During the event itself and subsequent tasting at the stand, this winery for sure held the best consistency quality.

Style of Flavour / Aroma: Rovellats – During a site visit we got to explore the depth from this winery and for sure it was a lot smoother than most examples tasted over the two days. For those preferring an easier introduction to Cava, then for me, Rovellats is the calmer way to go – Smoother, creamier fruits and floral with hints of yeasty characters.

Quality Excellence: Can Sala – The final dinner was at this magnificent residence of Can Sala where not only fine wine labels await, but the upmost gastronomical delights also are prepared and served. Though the atmosphere and setting was quite divine, the wines were very much able to merit the moment. Here is where the excellence of Cava is shown from longer lees aging to deliver what many would confuse with a finer vintage Champagne “The 2006 Can Sala reminds me very much of a longer bottle aged Champagne, something similar to a 1996 Dom Pérignon.” Christopher Walkey

 

As one of their hashtags promotes, is it #BetterwithCava? Both waiting in the wings and already out on a test lap are many other wine regions producing similar quality traditional method sparkling wines, so can Cava compete? Cremant, Cap Classique, Franciacorta, Trento DOC, Slovenia, Croatia, Sekt is me just naming a few other famous competitors looking to target that between Prosecco and Champagne gap.

In Sarah Jane Evans MW they have a fine representative for Cava, a well respected name in the industry and her books on Spain include ‘Seville’,  ‘The Wines of Northern Spain’ and ‘The Wines of Central and Southern Spain’. My further recommendations for 2024 would be to add:

• UK Brand Ambassador whose role is focused solely on the promotion of the DO Cava wines and regional wine tourism.
• A series of exhibiting at key industry trade wine tastings in London.
• An annual trade tasting where producers are present dedicated to all regions of DO Cava with a series of masterclasses held.
• A programme of key events such as DO Cava and fine food pairings / vintage vertical tastings / evening DO Cava themed social events.
• Press tours to cover each region of the DO Cava for key UK sparkling wine influencers (writers / social media / sommeliers).
• Consumer marketing programme to include ticketed DO Cava tasting events / competitions / promotions.
• Online marketing drive using most forms of social media to hit all age groups, make a Cava hashtag popular.

Extra Information on DO Cava – Cava de Paraje Calificado

The new category of Cava approved in 2017, Cava de Paraje Calificado, which recognises the products of an exceptionally special area: an estate in a particular location whose soil and microclimate conditions, over generations and generations, and with extremely strict cultivation and production characteristics, have led to a Cava with unique attributes.