Son Of A Lesser God: Sparkling Wines From Almost Unknown Grapes Ribolla Gialla

Let’s explore Friuli Venezia Giulia, an Italian region bordering Slovenia, known for being a battleground during World War I. Ribolla Gialla is an ancient native grapevine cultivated since Roman times, particularly in the hills around Rosazzo. In Slovenia and Croatia, it is called Rebula and is believed to have originated in the southern Dalmatian islands or further south, such as Kefalonia, from where Venetian merchants likely brought it to Friuli around the 12th century. This variety thrives in the hilly areas between Udine and Gorizia, within the DOC zones of Isonzo, Collio, Friuli Colli Orientali, and the Rosazzo DOCG. In the Slovenian Collio, known as BRDA, it also delivers outstanding results.

Ribolla Gialla does not grow on plains but prefers dry, hilly soils, producing intense and structured wines. Its bunches are small, cylindrical-pyramidal, and medium compact, with medium-sized berries that are slightly flattened and alabaster yellow. The pulp is neutral, sweet, and slightly astringent. There is also a Ribolla Verde variety, but it has remained rare. When vinified in white, Ribolla Gialla creates fresh wines with lively acidity, delicate flavors, and characteristic fruity aromas. The wine is pale straw-yellow with greenish hues, offering a dry, fresh, pleasantly aromatic profile, rich in acidity and well-balanced.

This grape represents the essence of the Friuli terroir, thriving on stratified sandstone and marl soils, called “Ponca” locally. Known since Roman times as Evola, it is ideal for sparkling wine production. However, its cultivation faced a decline in the 1980s when native vines were replaced with international varieties.

One of the most notable producers of Ribolla Gialla sparkling wine is COLLAVINI. Their winery is located in a restored 16th-century villa that once belonged to the Zuccus Counts of Cuccanéa. This magical location combines historical charm with innovative winemaking techniques. Collavini pioneered the “Collavini Method,” using horizontal autoclaves where Ribolla Gialla ages for over 30 months.

RIBOLLA GIALLA BRUT MILLESIMÉE SPARKLING WINE

Made from vineyards on the eastern hills, cultivated using spurred cordon and Guyot methods. The base wine undergoes initial fermentation partly in steel and partly in barriques before refermentation in horizontal autoclaves. It matures sur lies for at least 30 lunar cycles. The wine has a brilliant straw-yellow color with greenish reflections and fine, persistent effervescence. It offers a refined nose, with freshness, structure, citrus notes, and a long aromatic persistence.

DOSAGE ZERO

Produced entirely from Ribolla Gialla grapes, with initial fermentation in steel and barriques followed by slow refermentation in autoclaves, achieving a sugar residue below 3 g/l. After a minimum of 12 months in the bottle, the wine exhibits a straw-yellow hue with a delicate, persistent perlage. Aromas include floral, fresh citrus, yeast, and powdery notes. The palate is full, savory, vertical, and harmonious, ending with a fruity finish.

The Cormòns Producers’ Cellar offers RIBOLLA GIALLA BRUT made using the Charmat method, with extended yeast contact in autoclaves and bottle storage. Aromas include banana, caramel, and yeast, with a creamy, fine bubble.

RIBOLLA GIALLA EXTRA BRUT CLASSIC METHOD, PUIATTI WINERY

The vines are cultivated in Romans d’Isonzo Vineyards, characterized by alluvial soils rich in gravel and iron. Aged on the lees for 20-24 months, the wine has aromatic hints of broom, golden apple, and herbs. The result is crisp, refreshing, and delightful to drink.