Son Of A Lesser God: Sparkling Wines From Almost Unknown Grapes – Magliocco

At the 2025 edition of the Notte Rosa del Vino in Trebisacce, I met a woman whose presence alone could light up the event: Rita Bilotti, the driving force behind Serragiumenta. A woman of vision, strength, and unmistakable charm, Rita embodies the values of tradition and innovation that shape her land and her wines. Among the wines I tasted, Rosato in Bolle, Calabria IGT Rosé 2023, a sparkling wine made21 entirely from Magliocco, a native Calabrian grape rarely used for sparkling, was very interesting. The wine immediately captivated with its fine bubbles and delicate bouquet of rose petals. On the palate, it revealed a soft, fruity character, elegant and balanced, with a freshness that made it ideal for warm summer evenings. Cultivated on clay soils at 80 meters above sea level in the hills of Altomonte, these grapes are hand-harvested at the end of September and gently transformed using the Charmat method, followed by two months of bottle aging before release. This isn’t just a rosé — it’s a story in a glass, and Rita Bilotti tells it with passion and authenticity.

But to understand this wine fully, you must understand the place it comes from. Serragiumenta is not just a winery — it’s a living, breathing estate where hospitality, agriculture, and history come together in harmony. At its heart is a sixteenth-century castle, originally built by the noble Sanseverino family and lovingly restored by the Bilotti family, who have owned it since 1947. The castle stands amidst 55 hectares of farmland where olives, vines, and fruit trees flourish. The estate produces award-winning organic extra virgin olive oil, cold-pressed from varieties like Tondina, Nocellara Messinese, and Leccino, and it also raises native sheep and black Calabrian pigs to create artisanal cheeses and cured meats of exceptional quality. There’s even a bounty of preserves, many made from the prickly pears that grow along the long road leading to the castle.

Serragiumenta’s winemaking story began in 2004, when the family decided to plant native vines and explore the potential of the land through wine. With the guidance of a passionate winemaker from Mount Etna who shares their respect for nature and tradition, the estate now produces small but expressive batches of wine, crafted on-site with both ancestral knowledge and modern technology. A new winery is on the horizon, projected to expand production to over 100,000 bottles in just a few years — a sign of bold aspirations rooted deeply in the land.

Rosato in Bolle is the purest reflection of this vision: a wine born of careful hands and ancient soil, made by a woman whose belief in her roots is as strong as her desire to share them. It is a wine that speaks not only of Calabria’s flavor but of its soul.