Son Of A Lesser God: Sparkling Wines From Almost Unknown Grapes: Montonico

Montonico Bianco is an ancient Italian grape variety with deep roots in the heart of Abruzzo, a region renowned for its rich winemaking traditions and indigenous grape varieties. For its long history and unique characteristics, it represents a vital part of the biodiversity of Abruzzo’s viticulture.

The origins of Montonico Bianco probably date back to Roman times, though some sources suggest it may have arrived in the region through Mediterranean trade and migration. The name “Montonico” might come from the word “montagna” (mountain), reflecting its cultivation in hilly and mountainous areas. Historically, this grape has been primarily grown in the Vomano Valley, within the provinces of Teramo and L’Aquila, where it has found its ideal environment. Montonico Bianco is also found in Calabria, where it goes by several synonyms, such as Mantonico Bianco del Pollino, which often leads to confusion with the similarly named Calabrian grape, Mantonico Bianco.

Over the centuries, Montonico Bianco’s cultivation declined as growers favored more productive and popular varieties. However, in recent decades, there has been a revival of interest in this grape, for the aim of the local winegrower to promote native grapes and the tradition of the past.

Today, Montonico Bianco is mostly cultivated in the Abruzzo region, in the South East of Italy, particularly in the provinces of Teramo and L’Aquila, in the hilly areas around the Vomano Valley. Vineyards are located between 300 to 700 meters above sea level, where the climate is characterized by hot, dry summers and cold winters. These conditions, along with the considerable temperature variation between day and night, help the enhancement of the aromatic qualities of the grapes.

The soils are predominantly calcareous and clayey, with good drainage.

The Montonico Bianco vine has medium-large, pentagonal leaves, which can be three- or five-lobed, with a smooth, light green surface. The bunches are large, cylindrical, often winged, and compact. The berries are medium-sized, spherical, with a thick, golden-yellow skin that offers good resistance to fungal diseases.

Montonico Bianco is a vigorous grape variety, fairly resistant to climatic adversities. However, it requires careful vineyard management to avoid excessive vigor, which could compromise grape quality. This is a late-ripening grape, with harvest typically taking place in mid-October, when the grapes have reached full sugar and aromatic maturity.

Wines made from Montonico Bianco are known for their freshness and aromatic complexity, making them particularly enjoyable and versatile. Visually, Montonico Bianco wines have a straw-yellow color with greenish reflections.

On the nose, these wines offer an elegant bouquet, with floral notes of white flowers such as acacia and hawthorn, alongside fruity hints of apple, pear, and citrus, with herbaceous and slightly mineral undertones. In wines produced from higher-altitude vineyards, one may also detect subtle notes of almond and anise.

On the palate, Montonico Bianco wines stand out for their crisp acidity and light structure, making them easy to drink and very refreshing. They are typically dry, with a savory, almond-like finish that highlights their unique character. Montonico Bianco is also used in sparkling wine production, thanks to its ability to retain excellent acidity and freshness.

Cantina Ciccone began promoting the Montonico grape in the 1980s, and today, Matteo Ciccone continues the project with the same enthusiasm and the experience passed down from his father. Both share a common passion: the continuous pursuit of quality to produce wines and sparkling wines of absolute excellence.

The decision to produce sparkling wines came in 2015, following the results of the “Spumanti Abruzzo DOP” project. This initiative was developed by the University of Teramo, the Abruzzo Viticulture and Enology Research Consortium, and several producers within the framework of the Abruzzo Region’s Rural Development Plan.

The project aimed to assess the suitability of five indigenous Abruzzese grape varieties (Cococciola, Montepulciano, Montonico, Passerina, and Pecorino) for the production of sparkling wines using the traditional method, within the new DOP “Abruzzo.”

Abruzzo DOC Pilatum Montonico Superiore Pas Dosé, a traditional method sparkling wine. The first fermentation of the grapes take place in barrels, followed by a second fermentation in bottle (in accordance with DOP regulations), with all classic method processes, such as “remuage”, manually done. The wine offers citrus aromas, white flowers, and bread crust on the nose. On the palate, it is direct, creamy, and savory, with a flinty note on the finish.

The Ciccone winery is located in Bisenti, in the province of Teramo.

Montonico Bianco is an Italian native grape variety with deep roots in the heart of Abruzzo, a region famous for its winemaking tradition and its native grape varieties. This grape variety, with its thousand-year history and unique characteristics, represents an important piece of Abruzzo’s viticultural biodiversity.

The origins of Montonico Bianco are ancient and it is thought that its cultivation dates back to Roman times, although some sources suggest that it may have arrived in the region thanks to Mediterranean trade and migrations. The name “Montonico” could derive from “mountain,” in reference to its cultivation in hilly and mountainous areas. Historically, Montonico Bianco has been grown mainly in the Vomano Valley, in the provinces of Teramo and L’Aquila, where it has found its ideal environment. Montonico  Bianco is also present in Calabria, where it is known by various synonyms, including Mantonico Bianco del Pollino, which often creates confusion with the Calabrese Mantonico Bianco grape.

Over the centuries, the cultivation of Montonico Bianco has undergone a progressive decline due to the preference for more productive and better known vines. However, in recent decades, there has been a rediscovery and valorization of this variety, thanks to the commitment of local winemakers and enthusiasts who have recognized its historical and oenological value.

Today, Montonico Bianco is mainly grown in Abruzzo, in the provinces of Teramo and L’Aquila, especially in the hilly areas surrounding the Vomano Valley. The vineyards are located at altitudes ranging between 300 and 700 meters above sea level, where the climate is characterized by hot, dry summers and cold winters, with good daily temperature variations that favor the development of aromas in the grapes. The soils of this area are predominantly calcareous and clayey, with good drainage capacity that contributes to the quality of the grapes.

Montonico Bianco has medium-large leaves, pentagonal and trilobate or pentalobate, with a glabrous surface and a light green color. The bunches are large, cylindrical, often winged and quite compact. The grapes are medium-sized, spherical, with a thick and consistent golden yellow skin, which gives good resistance to fungal diseases.

Agronomically, Montonico Bianco is a vigorous vine and quite resistant to adverse weather conditions, although it requires particular attention to vineyard management to avoid problems of excessive vigor that could compromise the quality of the grapes. It is a late vine, with the harvest generally taking place in mid-October, when the grapes have reached full sugar and aromatic ripeness.

The wines produced with Montonico Bianco are characterized by freshness and aroma, qualities that make them particularly pleasant and versatile. From a visual point of view, Montonico Bianco wines have a straw yellow color with greenish reflections, which suggests freshness and youth.

On the nose, the wines offer an elegant bouquet, with floral notes of white flowers such as acacia and hawthorn, accompanied by fruity hints of apple, pear and citrus, along with herbaceous and slightly mineral nuances. In some cases, especially in wines obtained from vineyards located at higher altitudes, delicate notes of almond and anise can also be perceived.

On the palate, Montonico Bianco wines are distinguished by good acidity and a light structure, which makes them easy to drink and very refreshing. They are dry wines, with a savory and pleasantly almondy finish, which enhances their typicality. Montonico Bianco is also often used in the production of sparkling wines, thanks to its ability to maintain excellent acidity and freshness.

Cantina Ciccone began promoting the Montonico grape variety in the 1980s; Matteo Ciccone today carries on the project thanks to his enthusiasm and his father’s experience. Both are united by a single passion, the continuous search for Quality, in order to produce wines and sparkling wines of absolute excellence.

The decision to produce bubbles was born when in 2015 the results of the “Spumanti Abruzzo DOP” project were released, developed by the University of Teramo, the Consortium for Viticultural and Enological Research of Abruzzo and some producers within the framework of the Rural Development Plan of the Abruzzo Region. The project involved verifying the suitability of five native Abruzzo grape varieties (Cococciola, Montepulciano, Montonico, Passerina and Pecorino) for the production of sparkling wines strictly with the Classic method within the new ‘Abruzzo’ DOP.

Abruzzo Doc Pilatum Montonico Superiore Pas Dosé spumante metodo Classico sees the first fermentation of the grapes in barrel; refinement in bottle (as per DOP protocol / specification) and all the typical processes of the method such as the remuage conducted manually. The nose appreciates hints of citrus, white flowers and bread crust. The sip is direct, creamy and savoury with a note of flint on the finish.

The company is located in Bisenti in the province of Teramo.

Image credit belongs to Olga Sofia Schiaffino, Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use it.