Son Of A Lesser God: Sparkling Wines From Pretty Unknown Grapes – Caprettone

Campania has really a treasure, if you consider the richness and the varieties of native grapes!

Their names are sometimes funny and often refer to animals. Caprettone is one of those because it means ‘Big Goat’. It is a very vigorous vine and the shape of the bunch reminds you of the goat’s beard.

It was confused for a long time with Coda di Pecora (sheep’s tail) and cultivated on the volcanic slopes of Vesuvio; recently the winemakers of the Vesuvian area decided to promote the specific identity of that grape. Caprettone is now recognized as the most important variety to be used for producing Vesuvio Bianco Doc, in order of 80%.

It has a large, five-lobed light green leaf, pyramid-shaped bunch, small and irregular berries and a firm, yellowish pruinose skin.

Caprettone is early harvested on Vesuvio, around the day of the celebration of San Gennaro ( 19Th September), to preserve its acidity. Usually, the wines have a pale yellow color, olfactory notes of broom, apricot and mulberry, medium body and a strong minerality.

At the moment, two wineries produce sparkling with this performing grape!

Casa Setaro is located in Trecase, in the province of Naples, in the Vesuvio National Park: Massimo with his wife Maria Rosaria received in heritage from Vincenzo Setaro the ungrafted vineyards on the Volcano. The winery runs organic and they produce beautiful red wines from aglianico, piedirosso and zingy and fruity white wines from caprettone, falanghina del Vesuvio and coda di volpe.

Case Setaro does wonders with Caprettone sparkling wines!

Pietrafumante Brut has a very good quality price rate! The grapes come from 15-25 years old vines on the Vesuvio National Park, in Alto Tirone area at 350 meters above sea level. After a short cryomaceration, the must ferments in stainless steel tanks for 18-14 days; the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, according to the Classic Method, 30 months on the yeasts.

Pale lemon color with greenish reflections, it opens like a fan over floral notes such as broom, acacia, bloom, then citrus fruit, white peach and bread. Silky mousse, refreshing minerality for a very elegant sparkling wine.

Pietrafumante Dosage Zero 2018 shows a brilliant straw color in the glass; at the nose floral, citrus fruits, and bread. Creamy mousse and long, salty finish.

Sorrentino Winery in Boscotrecase, Vesuvio National Park, is a family estate born in 1931 when Grandmother Benigna acquired the first vineyard; in 2001 they obtained the organic certification and in 2020 the Vegan certification. The winery offers interesting tasting on the beautiful balcony over the Gulf of Naples (can’t miss it!) and the possibility to spend an unforgettable vacation in their resort.

They produce high quality wines from the native varieties and a sparkling brut Charmat method from Caprettone 90% and 10% Falanghina. The first bottle was produced in 2019, but Benny Sorrentino, the oenologist, started this project in 2000. The vines grow on the sandy volcanic soil and the grapes are harvested in the first ten days of September; after the fermentation, the wine goes to the autoclave for 30 months. The name of this beautiful sparkling wine is DòRè and it reminds me of the musical notes but also it could mean ‘King’s wine’, if you translate it from the local dialect, according to the first appearance of the Caprettone grape during the period when Carlo d’Angiò was the king.

Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Doc Spumante Brut Dòrè, 12,5% alcohol, shows hints of pear, white peach, green apple, and bloom. Well balanced and perfect in pairing with fish and fresh cheese.

After reading, have you become a Caprettone enthusiast? I did, some years ago! Cheers!