Söptei’s Bubori Blanc: Your Bubbly Best Friend

Of course, we all love a good bottle of Champagne or Metodo Classico.

But, are we always keen on buying or opening one when there’s not a special occasion to celebrate?

If you love bubbles and want to enjoy a bottle without guilt or breaking the bank, Söptei Zsolt has the perfect solution for you!

He produces this wonderful Gyöngyözőbor called „Bubori Blanc” on the shores of Lake Balaton.

I will spare you a headache by repeating the Hungarian definition again, but its translation is ‘Pearl Wine’, also the name of the wine simply means ‘White Bubbles’.

Simply put, it’s what we also call in Italy a Frizzante wine: CO2 is artificially added, creating a refreshing and easy-going wine best consumed young, which is the standard. However, Zsolt has a different idea on how his sparkling wine, or any of his wines, should be made—but more on that later…

A little geography lesson

Söptei vineyards are located near the village of Pécsely in Vekenye-dűlő, a ridge acreage in the Pécsely-basin, in the close vicinity of Lake Balaton.

The village is included in Balatonfüred-Csopak, one of the six wine districts included in the Lake Balaton wine region.

Balaton is the biggest Lake in Europe, as Hungarians proudly like to state in front of foreigners.

The area covers almost half of the northern shore of the Lake.

Balaton’s large surface reflects sunlight, creating a Mediterranean microclimate. The Balaton Highlands protect the basin from strong winds, making the region ideal for winemaking. The subsoil, rich in chalk, loess, and clay, retains water and nutrients perfectly for the vines.

As of today, Söptei Winery owns 7 hectares.

A brief History of Söptei Winery and its owner, Zsolt

Söptei’s history dates back to 1850 in Nemespécsely, in the Balatonfüred-Csopak Wine Region. Zsolt, representing the fifth generation of winemakers in his family, followed his father’s path in winemaking. Encouraged by his parents, he and his brother Robert moved to Germany to learn innovative techniques. Upon returning,

Zsolt was among the first in Hungary to use stainless steel tanks and reductive winemaking, moving away from traditional oxidative methods. This generational shift brought professional and spiritual challenges, but Zsolt’s success eventually earned his sceptical father’s approval.

Just as everything was falling into place for Zsolt and his family, he was diagnosed with a spinal cord tumor. Despite the overwhelming challenges, his determination helped him overcome the odds. After a lengthy surgery and learning to walk again through rehabilitation, Zsolt returned to his regular life with great perseverance.

His resilient spirit is evident in his wines, reflecting his innovative approach in Hungary. Known as a ‘Black sheep’ in the wine business, Zsolt believes in letting wines follow their natural course, harvesting only at full ripeness and releasing bottles only when they are ready. His commitment to perfection sometimes surpasses average customer expectations, as he refuses to sell wine that he doesn’t consider ready, without any compromises.

The protagonist: Bubori Blanc 2022

Pinot Blanc is not a very common grape in Hungary, although it was once prevalent in Tokaj before the phylloxera outbreak. Today, some producers around the country recognize and believe in its potential, with Zsolt being one of them. This versatile variety can be neutral or exhibit lively acidity, and it can even transition into a sweet wine.

Several factors give the Bubori Blanc an edge over other sparkling wines. Many people pair simple, thin wines with bubbles, assuming the carbonation will hold everything together. However, Zsolt does not support this approach, as we’ve previously mentioned.

The ‘Black Sheep’ strikes again.

For starters, the source material is Pinot Blanc harvested only at full ripeness. The Bubori is also a fine example of not fearing the screw cap, as it can still offer good quality even after some years in the bottle. Those familiar with the world of wines know that sparkling wines typically have a similar shelf life to average rosés and youthful whites, meaning after a year or so, they are best used for cooking.

With Söptei’s Bubori, we are tasting a 4-year-old ‘Frizzante’ that can stand the test of time and compete with some Methode Traditionelles. Ripe grapes, bottle ageing, and solid containment make it possible for this wonderful wine to have such longevity, with more years ahead of it.

This is not a biased opinion; the proof is in the glass!

The tasting

Right from the first pour, you notice a mirror-clear, deep yellow liquid, indicating the ripeness of the material it comes from.

The substantial bubbles are lively and spread well in the glass.

The initial whiff is of ripe fruits such as golden apple, green apple, and peach, with a lingering sweetness in the bouquet and hints of honey and caramel.

My first sip revealed a completely different profile, with citrus notes of lime and grapefruit syrup tones, accompanied by subtle minty undernotes.

Then, the unexpected happens: toastiness, hazelnut, and biscuity aromas emerge, reminiscent of sipping some good Franciacorta in Italy.

This wine is constantly evolving, complex, and multifaceted—light and mature at the same time. Its texture is creamy but not heavy, harmonious and rounded with a silky, velvety bubble structure.

The alcohol (13%) is well integrated, and the finish offers a long comeback of the “unexpected” aromas, with the bubbles providing a final tingling embrace on your palate.

A Wonderful Surprise.