Three Choirs Vineyards – Interview With Martin Fowke

There is no denying that English Sparkling Wine is on the rise, becoming an undeniable contender to Traditional Method Sparkling Wines around the world. To the English, it’s becoming a fan favourite and a go-to Glass of Bubbly, its quality is improving year on year and thanks to innovators and those willing to follow their dreams, the choice of English Sparkling Wine is expanding.

In this exclusive feature we speak with Martin Fowke, the Winemaking Director at Three Choirs Vineyards, in Newent, England, let’s find out a little about his life in the English wine industry.

It’s Great To Speak With You, Martin, Can You Tell Us A Little About Yourself & How Your Incredible Journey Into The Wine Industry Began?

“I was born and bred in Gloucestershire, lived in Cheltenham for my childhood and was educated at Dean Close School. It seems an age ago now. I then trained in Agriculture and Horticulture at RAU Cirencester. At the same time I met a girl called Elaine! Her father was Tom Day, who planted and managed the first vineyard plantings at Three Choirs. I was soon doing work experience at Three Choirs as part of my second educational stint doing a Business Studies degree. The subject grabbed me and I was soon managing the vineyard and learning about wine. We (Elaine and I), decided to go traveling around the world and we visited and did bits of work in vineyards in Australia and New Zealand. When we returned in the spring of 1988 the winemaker was leaving and my soon to be father in law and I took on the winemaking. So my winemaking career began. Elaine became my wife! Wine became my life!”

Do You Remember Your First Experience With Sparkling Wine? When It Was And What Kind Of Label It Was?

“At the time I was starting out in the winery the beginnings of the English Sparkling wine movement were stirring. We had made a small batch in 1988 using Seyval Blanc and sent it off to be disgorged. Tasting that first bottle was memorable. The look around the room. A few grins and a bit of nervous laughter. It wasn’t bad! We needed to learn more, and quickly, and I fondly remember “Tom’s tour” to Champagne, accompanied by David Westphall from Penshurst Vineyard. We visited many chateaux and asked many questions. It was a steep learning curve but I have great memories of standing at the top of a hill in Epernay with a glass of Mumm, looking out over the vineyards. We tried so many wines, but the one thing that they all had in common was the enthusiasm of the makers, the great stories attached to the wines and the many subtle variances from maker to maker that made each producer unique.”

How Rewarding And Challenging Is Managing Your Own Winery?

“Very on both counts! We make wine for around 30 other vineyards as well as our own wine. It is logistically challenging and relies on very good staff. At the same time it is great to have the opportunity to make so many wines. We have over 150 fermentations going on through harvest and make the same number of wines. We get the chance to experiment, trial and compare results. We see a wide range of grapes and make a range of wines for different markets. So challenging but extremely rewarding.”

When It Comes To Pairing Your Sparkling Wine With Food, Do You Have Any Favourite Combinations That You Would Personally Recommend?

“I am a lover of cheese! I think that wine and cheese are meant to go together. Not just red wine with stilton. There are some lovely light, soft cheeses around that sit beautifully with white or rose sparkling wine. English Sparkling, especially Seyval Blanc based wines, can have an element of orchard fruit in the early years, and a creamy somerset brie and an olive does it for me!”

If You Could Choose A Person In The World, Past Or Present, To Have A Glass of Bubbly With; Who Would It Be And Why? What Would You Drink And Why? What Would You Discuss?

“So this is a trick question. Of course it would be Elaine and my two boys, but I don’t suppose that is what you are looking for! I’d also love the chance to sit down with my father in law and tell him all about our journey to this point over our Three Choirs Blanc de Blancs!

Sport is my life outside of work, so how about Jonny Wilkinson! Not the most charismatic choice from the world cup winning team maybe, but I bet he enjoys a good glass of bubbles now that he isn’t training! As for the wine, it would have to be a Blanc de Noirs, and I have a loyalty towards Pol Roger as Bill Gunn used to be a good friend of the vineyard! As for what we would talk about, I’m intrigued by what makes people at the top that bit better. It is often just a mental approach, determination and dedication. I’m sure I’d find enough questions for him!”

Can You Share With Us Some Of The Countries And Locations Around The World That You Can Enjoy A Glass Of Three Choirs Vineyards?

“We have shipped wine around the world in the past but now the demand in the UK exceeds our production capacity and so exports are not high on our list. In the past we have supplied the colonies, sent a few containers to Scandinavia and serviced BA first class. Three Choirs can be found on the cruise ships but not much on foreign soil these days!”

What Future Plans Can Enthusiasts Of Three Choirs Vineyards Look Forward To In The Coming Years?

“We have new plantings coming through, which will enable us to produce more Sparkling, especially Blanc de Blancs. I am also wanting to do more with a still Chardonnay when the ripeness is there. We are doing more with barrels than ever before and have also been making Brandy which will become more widely available in 2025.”

Can You Share With Us One Of The Most Memorable Experiences You’ve Enjoyed With A Glass of Bubbly?

“It has to be our wedding! We had a marquee in the vineyard grounds and a good supply of Three Choirs Classic Cuvee! I think that the consumption per head was close to a world record and is still commented on! It was a hot sunny day, good company, and fine wine! Heaven!”

Thank you, Martin, for sharing your story and experiences with us and we at Glass of Bubbly wish you the very best for the future!

Images belong to Three Choirs Vineyards & Martin Fowke. Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use them.