Tuffon Hall Vineyard – Interview With Angus Crowther
6th August 2024
There is no denying that English Sparkling Wine is on the rise, becoming an undeniable contender to Traditional Method Sparkling Wines around the world. To the English, it’s becoming a fan favourite and a go-to Glass of Bubbly, its quality is improving year on year and thanks to innovators and those willing to follow their dreams, the choice of English Sparkling Wine is expanding.
In this exclusive feature we speak with Angus Crowther, the incredible owner of Tuffon Hall Vineyard, in England, let’s find out a little about his life in the English wine industry.
It’s Great To Speak With You, Angus, Can You Tell Us A Little About Yourself & Your Incredible Journey Into Creating Tuffon Hall Vineyard?
“I started by doing the yield analysis on a south facing slope just at the front of the house, and the soil was ‘gravelly, crappy, sandy stuff’, so we said ‘right let’s put vines on it’ and yes it was a risk. We did it from scratch in 2011, we planted Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay (1,500 each), and 2,000 Bacchus, a still wine, similar to Sauvignon Blanc. We have chalk, underneath sandy clay which is poor soil for growing wheat, but it’s brilliant for the grapes because they like to be stressed a bit, and that south facing slope has turned out to be perfect for growing vines and growing grapes, much better than growing wheat.”
Do You Remember Your First Experience With Sparkling Wine? When It Was And What Kind Of Wine It Was?
“It was my father’s 50th birthday up in Inverness and we drank Pol Roger which is still my favourite Champagne. I could not believe the taste and the texture and of course the bubbles. Luckily I have become friends with James Simpson, MW who is the MD of Pol Roger and loves telling us stories of Winston Churchill’s favourite drop. ‘I could not live without Champagne. In victory I deserve it. In defeat I need it.’ Winston Churchill, 1946.”
How Rewarding And Challenging Is Running Your Own English Vineyard?
“It took three years to start turning the grapes into wine, and the finances were helped by a bumper harvest in 2012 when grain prices went up to 200 pounds. So the cost of planting was covered and the tax bill was limited because of the reinvestment. Frost is the current problem and our frost fan is temperamental meaning we have to get up and protect the new buds the old fashioned way by burning damp straw bales.
We have also converted our colossal 16th century barn (recently voted England’s finest tasting room) a few steps away from the house, which opened in 2019 as a cellar door for ‘Eats, drink, tastings, and a supper club’. We also just launched our new membership programme which has gone down really well. We also host around 30 weddings per year plus other events. People can get married in the vineyard and have a reception in the barn. Our sparkling has actually run out – I’ve just had to go and get reinforcements from the 2021. So the wine really has gone much better than I thought. We wrote a vision statement with our objectives five years ago and we’ve smashed it.
When It Comes To Pairing Sparkling Wine With Food, Do You Have Any Favourite Combinations That You Would Personally Recommend?
“English Oysters and Crab. Yesterday lunch we had smoked salmon, burrata and asparagus with our pink sparkling. Simply divine. Monkfish. Cod.”
What Future Plans Can Enthusiasts Of Tuffon Hall Look Forward To In The Coming Years?
“The empire keeps growing – in 2016 we planted another 3,000 Pinot Noir, and 3,000 more in 2019. In 2022 we planted 3,000 Pinot Gris in the Alsace style which is exciting. But of greatest anticipation is the 6,000 Burgundian red clone vines we have planted which will be ready in about three years. Essex is known for its still wines and they are comparable to the best in the world. Pinot Noir, is a delicate feisty thing, like a number two, or number three daughter. It’s flexible, you can produce sparkling white, classic cuvée, and sparkling pink when you add a bit more skin, and you can make still Rosé. And now red wine will be made in two year’s time perhaps with barrel ageing (The excess skin is also used to produce ‘Tuffon Hall Grape Gin’).”
Can You Share With Us One Of The Most Memorable Experiences You’ve Enjoyed With A Glass of Bubbly?
“Our classic cuvee is served in Soho House and I could not believe my eyes when Thierry Henry came and sat down next to our table on one of the rare occasions I had been invited there. I persuaded the Manager to give Monsieur Henry a glass of English bubbles with my compliments. He was very surprised and having tasted it, remarked “C’est comme du Champagne” and came over and we chatted for ages. He’s a gentleman.”
Thank you, Angus Crowther, for sharing your story and experiences with us and we at Glass of Bubbly wish you the very best for the future!
Images belong to Angus Crowther. Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use them.
Oliver Walkey
Champagne and Sparkling Wine Writer, Focused on Bringing the Exciting and Fascinating World of Bubbly to You.