The Challenge Of Sparkling Wines From Puglia

Nothing could be easier than locating Puglia on the geographical map: once you find ‘the Italian boot’ just point to its heel, blissfully immersed in the Mediterranean Sea.

It is much more accurate to speak of ‘Puglie’, given the region’s extensive coastline stretching nearly 1,000 kilometers. This elongated area boasts a millennia-old winemaking tradition and an endless array of gastronomic nuances increasingly associated with sparkling wine, a pleasant surprise for those who think of this region as solely a producer of full-bodied red wines

Let us begin in the southernmost part, Salento, where clay-limestone soils dominate, with sandy variations along the coast. We then travel to the picturesque plateau of the Valle d’Itria, home to the iconic Trulli houses, where a thin clay layer overlays limestone bedrock. Further afield lies the karstic Murgia region, characterized by rocky terrain and a porous substratum. Heading north to the Tavoliere delle Puglie, between the Dauni Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, we encounter one of Italy’s largest agricultural districts, featuring fertile clay-loam soils.

These diverse macrozones each possess distinct geomorphological traits, yet share a common maritime influence and consistent ventilation, which promotes healthy grape cultivation.

This remarkable pedoclimatic variety presents an opportunity to fully leverage Puglia’s wealth of native grape varieties.

Uniqueness And Intellectual Integrity As Tools For Market Success

The rise of Italian sparkling wine, bolstered by festive consumption, contrasts sharply with declining sales of still wines. Data also highlights growth in the cocktail segment, increasingly pivotal for Italy’s sparkling wine sector.

The category continues to outperform others in adapting to economic challenges and shifting consumer habits, achieving significant volume growth. In 2024, Italy reaffirms its position as Europe’s leading producer, with domestic consumption accounting for 83% of local sparkling wine sales.

However, sparkling wines often emerge as “service wines,” created to round out commercial offerings rather than embodying excellence through sustained agronomic and oenological investment. Establishing a sparkling wine tradition—or creating a product of value from any grape variety—requires more than a few years.

On one hand, we see an overcrowding of labels stemming from indiscriminate sparkling wineproduction, often using grapes that are poorly suited for this purpose. On the other, we encounter truly promising “revelations,” meriting investment in research, development, and promotion.

Puglia’s focus should pivot toward identifying the most suitable varietals and refining production processes requiring heightened control. This article aims to underscore the potential of local grape varieties as the cornerstone of Puglia’s offering.

A Bit Of History And Plenty Of Recommendations

A manuscript from 1871 describes the “Verdeca di Gravina” an ancestral sparkling wine made from Verdeca grapes blended with Bianco d’Alessano and Malvasia Bianca. The wine underwent spontaneous refermentation in hypogean cellars, where incomplete fermentation resumed with warmer spring temperatures, producing a lightly effervescent, slightly sweet wine.

In the realm of the Charmat-Martinotti method, Puglian pioneers D’Alfonso del Sordo in San Severo and Leone De Castris in Salice Salentino began their ventures in the 1960s.

For the Metodo Classico, 1979 marked a pivotal year with the founding of D’Araprì. This winery, based in San Severo, embraced the noble sparkling wine tradition, prominently featuring the Bombino Bianco grape. Following years of experimentation, D’Araprì inspired numerous local wineries, solidifying San Severo as the epicenter of Puglian sparkling wine production and a symbol of excellence beyond regional borders.

Bombino Bianco is particularly well-suited to sparkling wine production due to its neutral varietal profile, moderate alcohol content, and generous acidity.

Elegant results have also been achieved with Negroamaro, especially when moving away from emphasizing autolytic notes like bread crust and instead showcasing the grape’s distinctive gustatory and aromatic qualities. Notable examples include the iconic Pas Dosé Millesimato Rohesia by Cantele and refined offerings from Cantina Coppola.

Susumaniello, once on the brink of extinction, has delivered increasingly compelling interpretations of sparkling wines. Standouts include Tenute Rubino’s complex and profound Sumaré aged 60 months.

Returning to white varieties, Verdeca from Valle d’Itria shines with its bright acidity and minerality, as showcased in the Metodo Classico 1759 by I Pastini or Giovanni Aiello’s Chakra Blu, where the ancestral method highlights the grape’s vivacity.

A lesser-known indigenous variety, Maresco, evokes maritime imagery with its fresh, saline character and floral-herbaceous aromatic profile. A fascinating example is the ancestral Maresco by L’Archetipo, a Triple “A” winery in the Murgia region.

The Question Of Positioning

Puglia’s natural affinity for sparkling wine stems from its climate and local cuisine. The trend of seasonal destigmatization—where sparkling wines are increasingly consumed year-round and paired across courses—further encourages production.

Despite growing volumes, the region lacks a dedicated observatory to monitor and guide production. Within Puglia itself, a pervasive absence of local pride complicates matters. Most restaurants and events default to serving Prosecco rather than showcasing local options, an oversight in a region with such a strong tourism appeal.

Cultural challenges, combined with fragmented offerings, hinder the development of unified strategies for product valorization, communication, and market positioning. Addressing these issues could enhance both pricing and perception, particularly in an increasingly consolidated global market.

The path ahead remains long and challenging, but the journey holds promise—provided that quality and education advance in tandem.

Photo Credit belongs to Paola Restelli, Glass of Bubbly was granted permission by Roksolana Kolodii to use the image.