Son Of A Lesser God: Sparkling Wines From Almost Unknown Grapes

Marche Bianco Spumante 2019 IGT from Ribona Maceratino (Classic Method brut nature) – Podere Sabbioni winery

Last summer I had the chance to meet Massimo, Maria Grazia and Laura Carletti, Podere Sabbioni winery.

The cellar is located in the heart of the Marche region. I was surprised because of their work and passion, for the great care they take of the environment. I fell in love with the classic method sparkling wine from a pretty unknown grape, the maceratino ribona.

The Maceratino grape variety has been cultivated for centuries in this region, particularly in the province of Macerata—from which it takes its name—and in the neighboring areas of Ancona and Ascoli Piceno. In these regions, it plays a key role in the production of the DOC wines Bianco Piceno and Bianco dei Colli Maceratesi. It is very likely part of the group of Greek grape varieties, ancient cultivars brought to Italy by the early settlers of Magna Graecia. Among its many synonyms are “Greco Maceratino” and “Greco Castellano.”

Its presence is becoming increasingly rare, even in its original growing areas, most likely due to competition with Verdicchio, which tends to offer superior winemaking qualities at a lower cost. In the areas where Maceratino has been grown for centuries, it was traditionally trained using a method called tralciaia, where vines were “married” to maple trees and supported with horizontal trellises to allow for long pruning.

Maceratino grapes grow in medium to large clusters, cylindrical in shape, with tightly packed, medium-sized, spheroid berries. The skin is not very thick, has a powdery coating, and features a golden hue with characteristic brown streaks. The variety is known for its consistently high yields and ease of cultivation, thanks to its adaptability to different soils and environmental conditions. It is somewhat sensitive to cold winter temperatures, but shows good resistance to spring frosts. It also offers good resistance to downy mildew and powdery mildew. Maceratino is used both in blends and as a single-varietal wine.

Massimo Carletti is one of the winegrowers who saved this grape from extinction: he produces beautiful dry wines, but he is very passionate about bubbles. He said to me about his work: “Lately, I’ve become convinced that the main protagonists are the soil and time. Going forward, I want to focus my efforts on Maceratino / Ribona for white wines, precisely to highlight the fundamental role of soil and time. I’ve always aimed to make wines that are lean, clean, and vertical, focusing more on purity and depth rather than strength and power.

I’m fascinated by the méthode traditionnelle. It’s very technical—it stands to wine as pastry does to cooking. You need to be precise, punctual, and exact. Timing and dosage are crucial. It’s the epitome of purity and cleanliness, and it brings to mind celebration.”

In 2019, after the maceratino ribona harvest, the first fermentation took place in a steel tank and the second fermentation started in 2022; the wine remained on the lees until 2024.

They decided to use a non-standard bottle (the Crus de France) and a high-quality cork to ensure a perfect seal.

The label is a story in itself. To catch the eye, Maria Grazia, his wife, took charge and did a great job, though it was unfortunately labor-intensive and impossible to scale up. The label can only be applied by hand and consists of a double sticker, one on top of the other: the first acts as a positioning template, and when removed, it leaves the second—the actual label—in place. This allows them to ‘dress’ the bottle, following its shape perfectly and without creases. Additionally, the label is embossed.

At the moment, in the winery, there are about 400 bottles of the 2021 vintage, around 700 of the 2022, and about 750 of the 2023. They are resting in a cave suspended over water, built in summer 2024 by taking advantage of a space adjacent to the cellar, set against the earth. The underground channel it sits on is the old watercourse that once powered the mill, now used to divert excess water from the main canal. From a technical perspective, it’s a special space—the temperature and especially the humidity are ideal and very stable. They chose not to finish the walls, so the marks of time remain visible, and there’s a door that opens directly onto the canal, creating a unique atmosphere.

For the 2024 harvest, there are about 650 liters / roughly 800 bottles, currently aging in a ceramic Clayver tank, waiting for the second fermentation process.

This beautiful and particular sparkling wine from Maceratino Ribona has a straw yellow color with greenish hints, fine and creamy mousse. At the nose notes of citrus, wisteria, saffron, and hydrocarbon. Very good persistence, perfect with a pasta with clams.

 

Photo Credit belongs to Olga Sofia Schiaffino, Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use the image.