Racz Lilla Interview

During one of her recent visits to Budapest for a tasting, I managed to steal a few precious minutes with Rácz Lilla: winemaker, storyteller, and one of the driving forces behind sparkling wine in Villány. Situated in the southernmost part of Hungary, near the Croatian border, Villány is one of the country’s warmest and most renowned wine regions, about a 2.5-hour drive from Budapest. Between sips and stories, she shared the roots of her winemaking journey, the challenges of crafting bubbles in a region famed for its reds, and her vision for connecting more closely with wine lovers.

• Could you tell us a little about yourself and how your journey into the world of winemaking began?

Where did it begin? I suppose it didn’t start in my lifetime.

On my father’s side, I had a grandfather who was a painter, Vitéz Jenő Rácz, whose paintings often featured Donátus, Pécs’ vineyard-covered hillside, where the famous Cirfandli (Zierfandler) grape found its Hungarian homeland.

My great-grandmother Bérczi (on my father’s maternal side) used to walk up the hill every spring to whitewash the press house inside and out, so the men could carry out their cellar work without worry. I remember it was a several-kilometre walk for her, all on dirt roads.

My father was probably born among the vines… I can see that it causes him physical pain whenever he’s not among the grapevines or in the press house. My younger brother, Miklós Rácz, who is also a winemaker, is equally obsessed with the vineyard.

On my mother’s side, my grandfather László Pozsonyi (Puhl), who was the headmaster of the school in Emőd, also tended his vineyard and made his wine until his final days.

These are my roots, and they almost predestined the path of my life.

In 1999, encouraged by my father, I planted my first vines.

• What are the rewards and challenges of running your winery and creating your wines?

We started making sparkling wine in 2009, which, on one hand, is a long time. By now, as an owner, you’d want to see results and financial profit, and when it doesn’t quite meet your expectations, it can be disappointing. That’s definitely a challenge: staying patient and maintaining the trust you need to invest in the product.

As for rewards, we receive positive feedback from consumers and see a growing volume of sales.

• What challenges do you face in producing and selling sparkling wine in a region like Villány, which is primarily known for its red wines?

It’s true—we emphasise the potential of our sparkling wines more through the method of production (méthode traditionnelle) and their ageing time (30–69 months) than the characteristics of the terroir.

• As a successful female winemaker, how are women viewed in Hungary today when they handle everything from viticulture to vinification?

Well, it’s not entirely true that I do everything alone! I’m accompanied on my journey by many men who support and complement my work. Standing directly beside me is my husband, László Latorczai, and my sons, who have been valuable members of our business for years now. But it’s also true that, as a woman winemaker, I pay special attention to other women in wine and business. They really inspire me—perhaps in a way a man never could.

• What are your winery’s goals and plans for the coming year?

To find more time and opportunities to meet with our consumers, whether through tastings, festivals, or other events. There’s always something to talk about, and that shared time becomes a real source of energy! And if we’re holding a good glass of sparkling wine, the moment becomes truly extraordinary.

We closed the interview with a glass of Lilla’s Brut Nature 2018 in hand, her sparkling wine that quietly pushes the boundaries of what Villány can express.

This vintage is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, an unusual trio, especially in Hungary’s southern red-wine stronghold. The wine spent more than 36 months on the lees, and true to its Brut Nature style, it was disgorged without dosage, resulting in a completely dry sparkling wine that speaks with clarity and confidence.

In the glass, it shows a bright, straw-yellow hue with a fine, elegant mousse. The nose is subtle and restrained, revealing layers slowly: crisp green apple, citrus zest, and a touch of white peach, all underpinned by hints of toasted bread and almond skin from the lees ageing. There’s a floral lift, too, perhaps a nod to the hydrangeas on the label.

On the palate, the wine is razor-sharp yet texturally graceful. The acidity drives the structure, while the long lees contact contributes a creamy, almost saline complexity. Notes of grapefruit pith, underripe pear, and a touch of brioche create a tightly wound, mineral-driven finish. It’s a wine that resists flashiness and instead rewards attention—a quiet standout.

This is not Villány as you know it. Instead of power, there’s precision; instead of warmth, there’s tension and finesse. Brut Nature reflects Lilla’s unique perspective: rooted in tradition, yet unafraid to reimagine the possibilities.

Image credit belongs to Marco Barbieri. Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use them.