Son Of A Lesser God: Sparkling Wines From Almost Unknown Grapes

Aurelia Classic Method Sparkling Wine, Andrea Bruzzone Winery

During a wine fair held in Genoa on February 2nd and 3rd, Andrea Bruzzone presented a unique Classic Method sparkling wine, a collective expression of the white grape varieties grown in Liguria.

A blend of grapes that takes you on a journey through this long and narrow Italian region, where the hills seem to plunge directly into the sea and where agriculture is undoubtedly heroic, given the miles of terraced vineyards built over the centuries.

The name for this sparkling wine, which rests on the lees for 36 months, is Aurelia—a deliberate choice, as it is named after the ancient Roman road built by Emperor Aurelius. This road starts in Rome and stretches all the way to France, running along the coast. Today, it is mostly represented by State Road No. 1, which passes through some of Liguria’s most picturesque villages, from the Tuscan border to Ventimiglia.

A sparkling wine reminiscent of an orchestra, where the grape varieties represent the musical instruments, skillfully conducted by Andrea Bruzzone—a man of great energy and passion, who has always beem a strong defender of viticulture in the Genoese area.

Andrea Bruzzone and Livia Merlo (Sommelier)

The initials of the white grape varieties used in the blend are listed on the label, from right to left: V for Vermentino, A for Albarola, S for Scimiscià, B for Bianchetta, L for Lumassina, P for Pigato, and M for Moscatello.

These letters also outline the shape of the region, and below them, in local dialect, the phrase Giancu da Gianche (aka Blanc de Blancs) appears, along with the Latin inscription Vinum Iter, meaning “a wine that becomes a journey”—not just a tasting experience but a cultural exploration as well.

The grapes are harvested separately, and the cuvée is then carefully composed before undergoing secondary fermentation in the bottle. The wine has a brilliant, delicate straw-yellow color with greenish reflections. On the nose, it offers subtle yet precise aromas of lemon zest, fresh acacia and hawthorn flowers, dog rose, pineapple, and aromatic herbs. On the palate, it is pleasant and well-balanced, with a saline touch that stands out in the finish. The mousse is creamy, and the bubbles are fine and persistent.

A tasting experience that is hard to forget, thanks to its finesse and elegance—never ordinary or predictable, but rather an authentic expression of the native varieties of a region that is making remarkable strides in sparkling wine production.

Image Credit belongs to Olga Sofia. Glass of Bubbly was Granted Permission to use the Images.