Zelna Winery Interview

Earlier this year, I had the privilege of interviewing Barna Barabás, head winemaker and co-founder of Zelna Winery, while he showed me around the estate in Balatonfüred. Located on the northern shore of Lake Balaton, just under two hours by car from Budapest, Balatonfüred is one of Hungary’s most charming wine towns and home to Zelna’s organically farmed vineyards and growing sparkling wine program.

As we walked through the winery and sipped his elegant bubbles, Barna shared the story behind Zelna, the challenges of working with local grapes like Furmint and Olaszrizling, and his vision for Hungarian sparkling wine. Here’s what he had to say.

– Can you tell us a little about yourself and how your journey into the wine industry began?

My name is Barna Barabás, I’m the head winemaker and co-founder of Zelna Winery in Balatonfüred, Hungary. My passion for wine started early, working on small family vineyards, which later led me to study viticulture and oenology at Corvinus University.

In 2014, my wife Lilla and I founded Zelna Winery, starting with 7 hectares and a strong commitment to organic and sustainable farming. Today, we work on 17 hectares across Balatonfüred, Tihany, and Balatonszőlős, always aiming to produce wines that reflect the character of our unique terroirs.

– Your winery is situated in the beautiful northeastern part of Lake Balaton. What are the advantages and challenges of producing sparkling wines in this region?

One of the biggest advantages in our region is the presence of two local grape varieties: Furmint and Olaszrizling, which form the base of our sparkling wine blend.

Furmint has excellent acidity, especially when harvested early, and Olaszrizling balances it out while still expressing the unique character of the terroir. Both varieties are well-suited to reflecting the local conditions.

As for challenges, climate change is definitely one, harvest dates are becoming earlier every year, which impacts all grape varieties, including those used for sparkling wines.

– Your Brut is a blend of two flagship Hungarian varieties, Furmint and Olaszrizling. What led you to choose these varieties? Do you think they can rival a more classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir?

We chose these two varieties because they retain their fresh acidity much better than many international grapes, making them ideal for sparkling wine. While they may never directly compete with the classic Chardonnay–Pinot Noir blends on the international stage, we see them as a unique alternative. Instead of copying well-known styles, we’re aiming to create something authentically Hungarian. We believe in Hungarian sparkling wine and its distinctive personality.

– Based on your experience, how is sparkling wine perceived in your country? What key aspects are you focusing on to make it more marketable?

Sparkling wines are becoming increasingly popular in Hungary, as well as internationally. Our focus is on crafting small-batch, high-quality sparkling wines with a personal touch. We’re among the few wineries in Hungary that handle the entire production process ourselves — from base wine to bottle fermentation — ensuring full control over quality and style.

– In which countries and locations around the world can people enjoy a glass of your sparkling wine?

Due to the limited quantities we produce, most of our sparkling wines are sold in Hungary. At the moment, we don’t export them abroad. So if you want to try them, we welcome you to Lake Balaton, where you can try directly at the Winery in Balatonfured or at our WineBistro, which, for the third year in a row, is recommended by the Michelin Guide!

After our chat, it was finally time for the tasting. Barna poured me, side by side, his two sparkling wines — both versions of the Brut Pezsgő 2021. Tasted in both regular and magnum format, it offered a fascinating glimpse into how the same wine can evolve differently depending on the bottle.

The blend itself is a beautifully balanced expression of Balaton. Furmint brings the driving acidity and energy, while Olaszrizling adds breadth, texture, and a distinct mineral edge. In the glass, the wine is pale and bright, with fine bubbles and aromas of green apple, lemon peel, and subtle brioche.

The regular bottle felt fresh and linear; crisp, clean, and full of youthful vibrancy. But it was the magnum that surprised me: it showed more maturity, with slightly riper fruit notes, deeper texture, and a fuller, rounder mid-palate. The bubbles were just as fine, but the overall impression was one of greater harmony and depth. A wine that’s not only ready to drink but also hints at what it might become with more time.

It’s the kind of sparkling wine that doesn’t try to imitate Champagne, but instead carves out its own identity: unmistakably Balaton, and unmistakably Zelna.

Image credit belongs to Marco Barbieri. Glass of Bubbly was granted permission to use them.