Po’Wi: the Johanniter Traditional Method from Oltrepò Pavese by Stefano Milanesi

Within the landscape of Oltrepò Pavese—a territory historically devoted to sparkling wine production and often identified with Pinot Noir—Stefano Milanesi’s project introduces a different trajectory. It does not simply reinterpret the Traditional Method, but rather reconsiders its agricultural foundations. PO’WI is born from the meeting of classic sparkling wine technique and the PIWI grape Johanniter, a variety resistant to the main fungal diseases, allowing for a significant reduction in vineyard treatments.

The idea is not only agronomic, but cultural: to demonstrate that sustainability can become integral to a historic appellation without appearing secondary or ideological. In a context such as Oltrepò Pavese, where the relationship between identity and innovation is frequently debated, PO’WI positions itself as a concrete proposal—one that can be measured directly in the glass.

Johanniter is a white grape variety created in Germany in 1968 by crossing Riesling with Freiburg 589-54 (Villard Seyve × (Rulander × Gutedel)). The berries are green-yellow in color, turning golden at full ripeness, typically between late September and early October.

Stefano Milanesi began this project with Johanniter and, given its characteristics, chose to produce it using the Traditional Method. All operations, both in the vineyard and in the cellar, are carried out manually, including disgorgement. The vintage is 2020, with disgorgement—strictly à la volée—performed in December 2025.

In the glass, PO’WI shows a fine and persistent perlage, indicating a well-executed secondary fermentation. The color is a bright golden yellow. On the nose, it opens with clear notes of fresh citrus, green apple, and floral hints, alongside nuances of meadow grass, followed by more evolved notes reminiscent of bread crust and yeast, while maintaining precision.

On the palate, the structure is vertical, driven by well-integrated freshness and a fine mousse texture. The acidity—crucial in PIWI varieties intended for sparkling wine—supports the progression without becoming aggressive. The finish is clean, with a return of fruit and a light salinity that encourages the next sip.

A particularly interesting sparkling wine, well suited to pairings with cured meats and focaccia, fish dishes, and vegetable pies. It sits alongside Vesna Nature rosé from Pinot Noir and S-Mila, also a Brut Nature Traditional Method obtained from Pinot Noir, Cortese, and Riesling Italico—wines that demonstrate Stefano Milanesi’s skill and dedication in producing sparkling wines and interpreting his remarkable territory with elegance and conviction.