Unusual Grape Varieties Used For Sparkling Wine: Pinot Gris

New Zealand is the land of Sauvignon Blanc, the grape that made the country shine on the wine map of the world. However, since the late 1980’s, and early 1990’s the country has developed an outstanding reputation in terms of high-quality wine, and has been known for its remarkable Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes. Most sparkling wines will be made according to the Methode Traditionelle, with Chardonnay and Pinot as leading stars.

Pinot Gris found its way across the globe as well, nestling in almost every wine region there is, but maybe the Pinot Gris from Hawke’s Bay due to its low rainfall and higher temperature can be considered one of the best. The maritime climate ensures the natural acidity, making it interesting for sparkling!

Even though Pinot Gris is no stranger to sparkling wine, as we do find it in a blend with Riesling and Pinot Blanc for the Crémant d’Alsace, the Pinot Gris does develop quite differently in Hawke’s Bay than it does in the Alsace. The first mention of the variety came as soon as the dark ages, in Burgundy. This makes sense, as it is a colour mutation of the Pinot Noir. Since then, the grape travelled to Switzerland where it was called Malvoisie (not to be confused with the Greek Malvasia). It was planted around the Balaton Lake in Hungary, where it was called Szükebarat or Grey Monk, due to it grey and pinkish hue. It established itself in the French region of the Alsace where it presents an aromatic and creamy style, sometimes with some residual sugar. The Pinot Grigio coming from Alto Adige and Fruili-Venezia Guilia tends to be more dry, easier to drink and sometimes with a pink hue, due to the maceration of the skin. A lot of export to the global market is found here, but some regions, especially deeper in Trentino Alto Adige, can provide a very high level of quality in their Pinot Grigio. The Grauburgunder from Germany will be dryer than the Alsatian style but will display more minerality than Pinot Grigio from Italy would, especially the Grauburgunder coming from the southern region of Baden.

In the early 1850’s French Missionaries came to New Zealand and founded different wineries, especially in Hawke’s Bay, on the east side of the Northern Island. They were impressed with the mild climate and the excellent amount of sunshine, along with cool winds coming from the ocean, and were sure that these held the perfect conditions to grow grapes. The region is of course famous for its Chardonnay and Syrah, but grows beautiful Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris and even Malbec. The style of Pinot Gris from Hawke’s Bay relates to the Alsatian style more than to the Italian style, but still holds its own identity. As a still wine, you can find an oily texture, with fruity notes such as orange peel, tangerine and a lively acidity.

Recently I had the chance to try sparkling Pinot Gris from Mission Estate. An estate, like the name says, founded by French missionaries. This particular sparkling wine was made not only with Pinot Gris, but also with some Pinot Grapes. The grapes were gently pressed and then been aged on the lees for about 2 years. After this, a Charmat method was used to preserve the delightful fruit aromas and thanks to the ageing a touch of bread yeast remains present in the nose and on the palate. A beautiful way to start your dinner as it is the perfect aperitif to serve with canapes, cold cut meats and further with lean fish, goats’ cheese or creamy white cheeses.

In terms of high quality, fresh food paired with French grape varieties New Zealand will never let you down!