The Auld Alliance

In 1295 the nations of France and Scotland formed a military alliance – an agreement that they would join forces whenever there was the threat of English invasion on either territory.

This was not simply a practical arrangement, but an alliance built on friendship, trust, and a mutual love of French wine. With the signing of the treaty, Scottish merchants were given the first pick of the finest wines in France, before the English were even allowed to bid for them.

The treaty was never formally revoked and the affection between the two nations endured. Their link was also crucial in the evolution of Champagne, as it was transformed from its origins as a sweet, heavy wine to the light, refreshing brut offerings that many of us enjoy today. It is Madame Pommery who is generally credited as being the first to pursue the dream of a brut Champagne that could be enjoyed throughout a meal and into the evening. However, winning over the domestic market proved to be more than a little difficult. It was her connection with several members of Scottish society that helped to keep her dream afloat while she perfected her new creation. Keen to be seen at the forefront of any new product, legend has it that her Scottish acquaintances flocked to fill their cellars with this new style of sparkle, even if they had to drink it with sugar lumps in their glasses while their tastebuds acclimatised.

As Champagne found a new role as a gastronomic wine, the Auld Alliance between France and Scotland could begin to take on a new dimension. Scottish produce is renowned for its freshness and quality, gracing menus and tables around the globe, and perfect for pairing with France’s finest Champagnes. It’s never a surprise to find light, zesty Champagnes served before a meal with hors d’oeuvres of Scottish shellfish and smoked salmon. It’s a winning combination, but let’s not stop there, as we’re only just scraping the surface of possibilities. Julien Launois is a Champagne producer in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, who maintains that although many of us enjoy a chilled glass of Champagne at the start of the evening, a fine bottle of bubbly should be allowed to warm a little, let its flavours open out, and be enjoyed throughout the meal. It’s a true test of quality, as at room temperature, the wine can’t lie.

One of the many delights of exploring the world of Champagne is the knowledge that every producer, from the best-known and most expensive of brands, to the smallest and most unassuming, will be true to the terroir, heritage and spirit of their own corner of this incredible region. Many consumers are now realising and enjoying the vast range of Champagnes that are produced today and wanting to learn more about the differences that the many factors in the production process make to the final product. So, perhaps it’s time to think even more carefully about the food that we pair them with…and time to push the power of the Auld Alliance a little further.

I asked Philipe Larue, the director of L’Arte du Vin in Dalgety Bay on the dramatic east coast of Scotland, what makes the pairing of Scottish food with Champagne so special. He said that Champagne mirrors the ocean’s essence, creating an almost seamless connection between the food and the wine. My Top Ten Pairings will attempt to capitalise on the magical connection that he describes, taking you through a range of brut Champagnes and delicacies that not only complement and celebrate each other but will get your tastebuds in shape and your creative juices flowing. The descriptors below focus on various elements, such as the grapes, the vintage, or the sugar dosage, and are just a select sample of the different styles of brut Champagne available. All of them have their own characters and will add something extraordinary to your table.

1. Zéro Dosage or Brut Nature is the driest of Champagne styles with no extra sugar added after the final fermentation. The result is a pure-tasting, crisp wine which some might find a little too brutal for their tastes. However, with the right pairing, the fruit will shine through its lip-smacking dryness, and you’ll soon be converted. Pierre Mignon’s Cuvée Pure Zéro Dosage Brut Nature is an award-winning example – try it with creamy Isle of Cumbrae oysters, finished with a dash of Isle of Harris gin, lime and coriander and you’ll never look back.

2. Extra Brut denotes a Champagne with up to 6 grams of sugar per litre. These light, dry Champagnes make the perfect partner for elegant seafood dishes. Collard-Picard’s Perpetuelle is a fine example, created by blending the wines of 12 different years and ageing them in oak casks, before they spend four years in the bottle. Don’t be deceived by the delicate notes of fruit and fresh pastry on the nose, as these soon give way to a deep and balanced wine with some real length on the palette. Enjoy it with something that’s soft enough not to destroy the delightful aromatics, but something robust enough not to be overshadowed by its resounding character. Try pairing it with plump Isle of Skye mussels in white wine, crème fraiche and leeks, and let the fresh flavours of each speak for themselves.

3. Brut Non-Vintage Reserve Champagnes represent some of the best value Champagnes that you can buy, blending new harvests with a percentage of older wine that has been reserved for several years to give a carefully crafted equilibrium of freshness, flavour and body beyond their years. Pol Roger’s Brut Non Vintage shows exactly what happens when winemaking meets artistry and something truly extraordinary is produced. A wine this balanced requires the simplest and noblest of offerings from Scotland – St James Royal Fillet smoked salmon with freshly-made lemon mayonnaise and melba toast – a quintessential combination brought to new heights by some of the best producers in their fields.

4. Brut Prestige denotes the company’s top tier blend. Tucked away in a backstreet in the Premier Cru village of Hautvillers, the cradle of Champagne, is the Paul Gauvain Champagne house, producing Brut Prestige of the finest quality. The unctuous flavour and real finesse of this exquisite wine is more than a match for a great many of the better-known brands. It will pair beautifully with the sweet saltiness of fresh Orkney crab, topped with hot caper butter and chunky sourdough, and leave you wondering why anyone would favour designer labels over sheer quality and integrity.

5. Blanc de Blancs is made entirely from white grapes, and always a crowd-pleaser. La Belle Bleue from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is made entirely from Chardonnay grapes grown on old vines on limestone soil and has spent five years on the lees. Its citrus notes with hints of toast will enthrone the queen of brunches when paired with plump Inverawe kippers, salted Lockerbie butter and soft-poached eggs.

6. Brut Vintage Champagne is produced using grapes from a single year, and each vintage has its own flavour profile and fervent following. It takes a harvest of incredible quality to be designated as a vintage year, in recognition of its premium status. If you can find a bottle of Moet and Chandon 2008 and chill it to no more than 8ºC, you will enter a world of brioche, peaches, frangipane and vanilla, delivered almost entirely by Chardonnay grapes, underpinned by a smattering of black grapes for extra fruitiness and depth. A wine of this stature and viscosity can hold its own in the company of some robust flavours. Try it with a tangy Isle of Mull cheddar, ripe pears, and crunchy Galloway oat cakes for a pairing to remember, long after the last drops have been coaxed from the bottle.

7. Brut Vintage rosé is a pink Champagne which is also the result of a single and exceptional year’s harvest. Vintage rosés age with the most incredible profundity and complexity, and are best enjoyed in wide-mouthed glasses to appreciate them fully. Gosset Celebris 2004 is as full-bodied as it is elegant, with its deep apricot-colour and fine bubbles, not to mention the fact that its iconic vintage-style bottle makes a stylish centre-piece for your table. Its substantial body and subtle notes of dried fruit, herbs and spices make it a worthy accompaniment to seared Highland venison steak with a blackberry reduction, asparagus and buttered Ayrshire potatoes.

8. Rosé d’assemblage is a deeply-coloured rosé produced by adding a small percentage of Coteaux Champenois to the Champagne – a still red wine from the region. Joseph Desruet’s glorious Cuvée des Rosés has spent 30 months maturing in caves, becoming rich and harmonious, yet still with enough freshness to carry a grand and multi-faceted seafood course. Try it with sautéed West Coast scallops and Mogerley’s black pudding with white truffle oil, roasted beetroot and wild garlic… your tastebuds might never recover from the experience.

9. Rosé de saignée is crafted by ‘bleeding off’ some pink grape must from the vats during the production of red wine. This is then transformed into a deeply coloured rosé with subtle notes of tannin and red fruit. Champagne Geoffroy produces an absolute gem, made from 100% Pinot Noir using minimal intervention with nature and traditional methods of farming, such as horse-drawn ploughs. On the nose, you should detect wild strawberries and roses, leading to notes of cranberries and blackberries. Capitalise on the gastronomic potential of this most celebrated of French grapes shining through every mouthful by serving it with slow-roasted pheasant, caramelised shallots, ripe cherries and rosti potatoes.

10. Blanc de Noirs describes a white Champagne made from black grapes, either solely Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, or a blend. They are known for being full- flavoured with clear notes of fresh red fruits chiming throughout the glass. An excellent example is Gardet’s blanc de noirs from the premier cru village of Chigny-les-Roses. This flamboyant fruit-forward Champagne will pair beautifully with heather honey Crème Brûlée, toasted oatmeal and fresh Scottish raspberries to round off your meal in true style.

There are many other styles of brut Champagne to choose from, with endless gastronomic possibilities, regardless of whether you prefer to enjoy it with something elaborate or simple, something classic or avant-garde.

When posed the question of his favourite Champagne, sommelier Denis Garret didn’t hesitate for a second, replying that it is the Champagne that you are drinking at that moment and with your friends. I have to agree with his words of wisdom and therefore to thank all those who have shared my travels and my table, have considered, deliberated and even argued over the best produce and pairings of our Auld Alliance, and made every Champagne and every deserving dish a favourite for that moment.

 

Written by: Angela Chester
Freelance writer specialising in travel, food and wine